So I just purchased my 1997 Ram 1500 4x4 360(5.9L) stock under the hood (for now). After driving it for around 30 miles the CEL came on. Stopped by checker ran a OBDII scan, Cylinder #5 mifire! Ok not a problem, I think, I just need a tune up. So I replace cap, rotor, plugs (.035 gap)and wires. I went with the NGK V-power plugs cuz i trust them and have used them in all my vehicals! Truck runs fine for another 30 or so miles and the CEL pops back on, same code! I find the TSB on the routing of the wires and complete this, reset the code and things seem good! 10 miles later CEL again, same code! Ran Some sea foam thru the gas and thebrake booster line, ran good for a bit. Wellthe whole time the truck has seemed to idle a bit rough, I really thought nothing of it!SoI reallystarted paying attention to when the light was popping on and when it really started to idle rough. The light seemed to come on after the truck had idled forlike 10-15 mins total. And it only seemed to idle rough at normal operating temps, not when the motor was cold. I was then told by a supposed mopar fanatic that these trucks dont like the NGk plugs and to swap out for some copper champions and see if that might fix the problem. Nope CEL still came back on! I ran out of stuff I could check myself and was pulling my hair out over it, so I took it to Tunex to have a complete engine diagnostics run. They come back telling me my #5 injector was not firing properly. Ok I pick up a new one andswap it out! Still idles rough and 20 miles later guess what, yea CEL pops back on! This time with 2 codes #5 misfire (again)as well as a random misfire! Clear the codes and less than 5 miles later the light came back on.

I am running a compression test as soon as I can (been working way too much to have any free time during the day hours, and can't use the garage) to see what that pulls up! Gonna also swap out a cracked hose leading to the MAP sensor, clean the TB and all attached to it. I do believe my plenum is leaking as I can hear the air sucking in thru my breather hose when detached from the airbox. Thats on the list to fix ASAP!

I am starting to think that the head/heads might be cracked. I can pick up1 complete and 1 almost complete usedmotors for 300 bucks local, ButI would like a bit more info and suggestions before starting a complete motor rebuild and swap!

So here are my questions.Are there any other possbile ways to check to see if my heads are cracked with out pulling them? Any other symptoms of a cracked head I can look or watch for? If indeed my heads are cracked, any really bad side effects or possible damage that could result if I continue to drive till I can rebuild a motor (3 months maybe)? OR maybe any other things I can try to fix the miss in hopes the head/heads are not cracked? And what RPM should these trucks Idle at (in gear and in park)? What should the it read on the compression test?

Sorry for the long post, but any help/advice will be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!! Thanks in advance!

And on a side note even thru this all, I still LOVE my truck!!!!!! So happy to be back in a Dodge!!!!

 

Our trucks' engines were made to use Champions. I've talked to several mechanics who've said, and I can almost quote it every time... "I wouldn't recommend Champions for much anymore except Dodge 5.2 and 5.9 liter engines."

I am currently running NGK's Iridium plugs and haven't had any problems. My wife's 4.0L Jeep engine (originally designed by AMC) came with NGKs stock, so I figured NGKs can't be too bad for Chrysler products.

Glad you made sure you routed the wires correctly. That would have been one of the things I would have checked. A cracked head is another good thing to check for. I can't help ya with that though, not enough mechanical experience, sorry. I'll let someone else here who has done that check or replaced their heads before answer that.

One thing I didn't see in your post and that I might suggest; have you checked the catalytic converter? You didn't say how many miles you had on the truck, but a clogged cat can cause a misfire as well as rough idle.

Glad you love the truck, most people here do. Welcome to the forums!

 

It has quite a few miles stitting a few hundred below 190k! The last about 30k were mostly highway miles as the guyI bought it from lived about a 60 mile drive to work from where he lived (one way 60+, 120+ round trip)! No I have not checked the cat and forgot to list it on the itemsI plan to check ASAP! I doplan on upgradin the exhaust onceI can get this misfire gremlin to go away!

 

I also had a misfire gremlin that sounds eerily similar to yours. I pulled the Crankshaft position sensor connection apart, cleaned out the corrosion, and before re-connecting it put some di-electric compound on the connectors.

I then did the same to the camshaft position sensor connector. Also, it is very easy to pinch off the camshaft position sensor wire lead when changing the cap and rotor. That is what had actually happened to mine. Because of the cut in the covering over the wire, the bare wire was visible and was shorting out. This is easiest to check by pulling the cap and rotor and lifting the remaining black plastic piece off the distributor after having disconnecting the wires. Look very closely for hard kinks in the wire that could indicate that the wire had been pinched off by the cap. If the wire is damaged I would recommend replacing the camshaft position sensor. I bought a used distribtor for $30 and it had a sensor in it instead of paying the high price of one at the parts store.

Between using di-electric grease to insure a good connection, and replacing the camshaft position sensor, I was able to prevent the misfire codes from returning. Good luck.

 

X2 on cleanliness and dielectric grease. I also put the Champion plugs back in my truck and she idles nice and schmooth.

 

Did you replace the cracked hose to the MAP sensor yet? That could cause some problems.

And any brand name of plug should run OK on these engines, as long as it is the correct heat range. I myself have been using Bosch Platiums for a while now.

 

A leak down test will tell you if the heads are cracked or you have a head gasket blown between two cylinders. It's hard to differentiate between the two though, and, rarely, the test could be skewed by leaky valves on adjacent cylinders. Any of the problems indicated will require removing the heads, and, if it were me, I would not put the stock heads back on after the time and effort it takes to pull them as they have a tendency to crack anyway.


+1
I was running the Autolite 3923's (one step colder), and was occasionalyexperiencing a slight stumble. NGK's of the proper heat range corrected it.

 

Do a compression test and see if cylinder #5 or any of the cylinders are way off from the rest of them.

 

Compression test numbers1 thru 8. 120, 130, 125, 113, 80, 110, 120, 120!!!! This was a dry test as I did not have the time to complete a wet test!

I thinkI have found the source of my miss! Now to see if itis due to something in the head or if the rings are shot! But I thinkI am gonna try to pick up those motors and start a rebuild anyhow!

 

Number 5's got a little problem there. Do you have any oil or coolant loss issues? It might just be the head gasket, but if you get the chance try the wet test. That'll at least tell you if it's the rings.

Good luck with getting her fixed.