Sustained Pre-ignition, which will usually look as a melted or missing center electrode and/or ground electrode as well as a destroyed insulator. Check for incorrect heat range plug, over advanced timing, lean fuel mixtures or even hot spots or deposit accumulation inside the combustion chamber

 

Thanks now how do i check all this stuff? Also how do you get the damn injector plug off the injector. I slid the red part up now what??

 

squeeze the black clip just under the red locking clip and pull back. Just be careful as they get pretty brittle with the heat from the engine bay.

 

most of the red clips are gone already and I've never had them off. But it started raining on me so i had to quit [:@]

 

should the red clip be up or down?

 

Check the compression first. If that cylinder is low there is no point scoping it. The head will have to come off to repair either way.

Pull the Red clip up on the injector, then you should be able to squeeze the tab to release the connector and pull it off.

Install a new spark plug then push the injector connector on and off to see if the RPM's drop or increase when the engine is idling. If the injector windings are shorted or open it should set a code. The injector could be plugged with crud causing the lean condition though. I had that happen to me once.

 

ok I was kinda working on doing a compression test but the engine was cold not sure how much difference that will make. That cylinder was 105 the rest on that side kinda jumped around 110,113,125 i think the numbers were. The paper is in my truck. Does that sound like a problem? Other then the slight mis the truck seemed to run fine. it doesn't make any bad noises or anything else to sugest a problem. I have been messing with that injector wire all day and just cant seem to get the damn thing off. If it is a dirty inj how does one go about cleaning it or do I have to buy new ones?

What plugs/wire/cap/ rotor do you guys recomend?

I was looking around and found the msd 8.5mm set cost 93.00 for my truck. Are they worth all that? And to reap all the benifits of a set of wires like that would I have to upgrade everything ie Coil, Msd cap and rotor? What really do they provide thats so much better then a normal replacement?

 

Those are all kinda low. I think 145 is spec.
Try squirting a few tbsp of oil down the spark plug hole and re check.
The red lock clip is a PITA. SometimesI yank it right out.

I've got the Mopar Performance cap, rotor and wires.
I think the NAPA stuff is decent too.

You can try swapping the injector to another cylinder and see if the misfire moves to that cylinder. When you remove the injector from the fuel rail look and see if the inlet is plugged. Mine was plugged right to the top. I carefully dig out all the crud with a tooth pick and by spraying some carb cleaner into the inlet.
A few guys here bought the sonic jewelry cleaner from walmart and cleaned their injectors 2 at a time with Seafoam or mineral spirits. I haven't tried that approach though.

 

Awww the MSD , you can get the msd SF 8mm plug wires for 40.00 on ebay , the 8.5 mm of course is more , the idea of using the 8mm or the 8.5 mm is less restiance to the plug a stronger fire to the plug , which will give a slight increase in throttle responce , smoother idle .. just using the wires does not mean you have to upgrade the coil , MSD does not make a cap and rotor , this is where you get a good brass cap at your local parts store again nothing special to use with the plug wires , its when you change the coil and put on a MSD box in the mix is where you want to look at which wires you get , you givea little more closer look....Rember your factory wire looms wont work with the 8.5mm wires , then you gotta upgrade that to. wensday ill have a pic of the looms i went with..

 

well I went back out to try to get it of again and I broke the whole ****ing cliping thing off now it pops up when you put it on. I guess I'll have to get a whole damn harness now too.