180 Degree Thermostat
Hey, I know this is probably a repost but I read on the tricks and tips section that i can get a "180 Degree Robert Shaw High-Flow Thermostat" for about $9. I was wondering, also, where do I install the thermostat? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks..
T-stat goes in the top of the intake manifold where the coolant return hose bolts down. That's the big hose that runs across the top of the engine bay and into the top side of the radiator on the driver's side. After you pull it, grind the "Front" tab off the t stat housing tube. Then you can pull it on and off without having to pull the other stuff (you really only need to remove the hold down brackets, not the actual alternator and A/C compressor.) You'll need some coolant resistant RTV and a t-stat gasket to reinstall.
If you install a 180* t stat and trip the CEL P1281 code "engine too cold too long," pull the 180* t stat and put in a stock 195* t stat. Some get lucky, some don't.
If you install a 180* t stat and trip the CEL P1281 code "engine too cold too long," pull the 180* t stat and put in a stock 195* t stat. Some get lucky, some don't.
wow and i thought the 3rd gens placement sucked....
its better to spend the 30 bucks and get a 2 stage t stat. it will allow the engine to get up to temperature faster than a cheap 180 t stat, which is better on your engine....
its better to spend the 30 bucks and get a 2 stage t stat. it will allow the engine to get up to temperature faster than a cheap 180 t stat, which is better on your engine....
Wow. That sounds like quite a bit of work. I'm just looking at all the little things I could do to get 15 hp here, 5hp there and I didn't know what the 180 degree buzz was all about. Props to those guys who did it though...
If you look in the DIY section...you can see a good shot of the housing in the plenum repair section...also.. the water replacement section uses the same pics but takes you through the water pump exchange instead of the plenum.. great pics and info....Pulling the alt and AC unit is like 6 bolts.. and takes all of about 5 minutes so its not too bad...but as Aim said.. once you have the housing off and the old T-stat out.. theres a tab on the housing that says.. " front"...if you cut/grind it off... the next time you need to get the housing off.. ( in case your one of the unlucky ones whose truck throws a code for the low tem..) it can be pulled off with just unbolting the two bolts that hold the housing down. You'll have to take some time and make sure the old gasket is cleaned off where the housing goes...otherwise you'll have a leak for sure..so take your time and clean the area well..use some Ultra black RTV with the gasket for the housing when reinstalling the T-stat housing...
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the T-stat wont get you much of anything except if your lucky.. it wont throw a code and keep your motor cooler....I did mine just a few days ago ( with my water pump and a few other things..) and so far no code.. ( knocking on wood!! ) As for the HP gains.. well, the argument is.. anything that heklps the engine run cooler COULD help...so...there ya go...
I bought a 180* Stant from Advance for 4 dollars. I would just keep the stock setup instead of going with a 30 dollar two stage. In my mind, I can't justify a Thermostat worth 30 bucks. I'd stay stock and put the other 25 in spark plugs, synthetic mobil1, mr gasket air cleaner, etc. But in due respect, something like a two stage upgrade would be awesome for modified engines, just not convinced for daily drivers.



