Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Gainesville, Ga.
RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT
i think the different water pump gaskets are for 2 different versions of the timing cover/wp that share the same timing cover footprint. its probably a lot cheaper to give away an extra gasket than stock the 2 different versions. the only other possibility i can think of is thats its for some other extra option that was on the engine. if you didn't have anything that fit it, i don't think thats a problem.
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RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT
Yeah there wasn't anything close to that size, but in my Haynes, it has a picture with that gasket on the outside timing cover, where the WP is, but since they take a lot of pictures of the Diesel model, I think maybe that's the Diesel WP.
Anyway, what I did was tear it back down past the accesory bracket, and re tightened everything. It seems like I had missed a few things;
1) I didn't tighten down the heater hose clamp enough.
2) the upper radiator hose needed tightening
3) my By-Pass clamps weren't quite past the lip on those socket entries, moved the clamps down and tightened them with a better grade clamp than I had previously used.
4) had to turn that WP socket entry another turn, so that there were two threads showing, as I had 3 showing while my stock had 2 (used some RTV around the bottom portion of the threads, will make it tough to get back out, but I dont see why I'd replace just the socket)
5) I replaced the Tstat (NAPA 0.74 cents) gasket because mine had broken at two ends where the bolts meet the intake, not to much of a leak, just didnt like having breakage on a gasket for future preventive maintenence.
6) used BLACK Rtv around the stat, gasket and housing. Made for a nicer, harder seal than the BLUE.
I let it run for 5 minutes, and my dad and I noticed the actuators adjusting to everything (no joke, let it idle at least 5 min) and the engine actually got quieter. Took it for another test drive and nothing but POWER. No shifting/idling issues. the temp stayed right about 180-185 area. better off the line, accelerates better. Will be driving it a bit more today
Anyway, what I did was tear it back down past the accesory bracket, and re tightened everything. It seems like I had missed a few things;
1) I didn't tighten down the heater hose clamp enough.
2) the upper radiator hose needed tightening
3) my By-Pass clamps weren't quite past the lip on those socket entries, moved the clamps down and tightened them with a better grade clamp than I had previously used.
4) had to turn that WP socket entry another turn, so that there were two threads showing, as I had 3 showing while my stock had 2 (used some RTV around the bottom portion of the threads, will make it tough to get back out, but I dont see why I'd replace just the socket)
5) I replaced the Tstat (NAPA 0.74 cents) gasket because mine had broken at two ends where the bolts meet the intake, not to much of a leak, just didnt like having breakage on a gasket for future preventive maintenence.
6) used BLACK Rtv around the stat, gasket and housing. Made for a nicer, harder seal than the BLUE.
I let it run for 5 minutes, and my dad and I noticed the actuators adjusting to everything (no joke, let it idle at least 5 min) and the engine actually got quieter. Took it for another test drive and nothing but POWER. No shifting/idling issues. the temp stayed right about 180-185 area. better off the line, accelerates better. Will be driving it a bit more today
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
Likes: 10
From: Gainesville, Ga.
RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT
ORIGINAL: kowboydmac
1) I didn't tighten down the heater hose clamp enough.
1) I didn't tighten down the heater hose clamp enough.
ORIGINAL: kowboydmac
2) the upper radiator hose needed tightening
2) the upper radiator hose needed tightening
ORIGINAL: kowboydmac
3) my By-Pass clamps weren't quite past the lip on those socket entries, moved the clamps down and tightened them with a better grade clamp than I had previously used.
3) my By-Pass clamps weren't quite past the lip on those socket entries, moved the clamps down and tightened them with a better grade clamp than I had previously used.
ORIGINAL: kowboydmac
5) I replaced the Tstat (NAPA 0.74 cents) gasket because mine had broken at two ends where the bolts meet the intake, not to much of a leak, just didnt like having breakage on a gasket for future preventive maintenence.
5) I replaced the Tstat (NAPA 0.74 cents) gasket because mine had broken at two ends where the bolts meet the intake, not to much of a leak, just didnt like having breakage on a gasket for future preventive maintenence.
ORIGINAL: kowboydmac
Took it for another test drive and nothing but POWER. No shifting/idling issues. the temp stayed right about 180-185 area. better off the line, accelerates better. Will be driving it a bit more today
Took it for another test drive and nothing but POWER. No shifting/idling issues. the temp stayed right about 180-185 area. better off the line, accelerates better. Will be driving it a bit more today
glad you got her going. good luck.
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RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT
Haha. Nice. I squirted some Purple stuff all around the block, but never washed it off, so now i'm smelling it when the manifolds heat up. At first I freaked out, but the smell wasnt coolant, my uncle thought it was wire so I moved around my plug wires some more, but then I remembered the purple stuff. It's slowly burning it all off. Now, on to the exhaust. Mwahahaha.