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Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:32 PM
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Default Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

BUT I have a small coolant leak somewhere up front near the timing cover. I don't know, and this sounds noobish (lol) but I have a random bolt that wasn't in my bolt box, or if it was I'm not sure if it's an old Intake bolt or what. I found a few slots where I thought it might go, but the thread was too small so it's kind of a shame I can't go into much detail.

Also, when I test drove it, the truck would increase RPM's at idle. I would drive it (nice sound over 2300 rpm with that air cleaner btw) and when I'd go to brake or let my foot off the pedal, the truck would want to continue going. I figure this to be with the accelerator cable, but would like a few opinions. I started it up to check leaks about a dozen times now, and checked the plenum and it's still dry.

So, if I could get some help as to where to check for frequent leaks when doing the plenum, timing chain or water pump, and some info as to curing the trucks "excessive go", it would be GREAT.

Thanks.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 07:58 PM
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Default RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

Anybody with some idle help?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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Default RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

I don't know if this is your problem but, some of the bolts in the timing cover go into the waterjacket and are longer than the ones that don't. Did you get those backward? Coolant also runs thru the intake manifold as well. If the manifold isn't seated properly on the heads, it can leak thru the intake gaskets.

The idle problem is probably the IAC or TPS. Did you remove them when you took off the TB?

Try resetting the idle air counts per this Link:
http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...a%20Magnum.pdf

If not, did you mod your TPS? I did and had a slow-back-to-idle problem you seem to be describing. Try a new one and don't mod it.


 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 08:39 PM
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Default RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

I just removed the connections, not the actual sensors. I think replacing my TPS is the way to go. I had to replace the IAC a few months ago (turned out the problem with that was the o2) but it was good to get a new one anyway.

The leak is small, and coming from the top of the timing cover as best I can tell. It was spitting pretty harshly around the tstat housing and heater hose, but i re-clamped them and tightened them a little tighter and it stopped doing that.

I can't get to napa or rockauto online for some reason at the moment, so what kind of cost is a TPS
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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Default RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

40 to 65 depending on the brand. I think I got a Borg warner at Oreilly auto for 41.99 the last time I bought one.
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 08:55 PM
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Default RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

Ah, darn. lol. I was hoping to keep 200 back from all this, and i'm already at 130. Well IDK how to get around it, guess I'll replace it and then try that link. I'm not comfortable saying it is the timing cover, though I do know there is one slot open and I have a short bolt. But if I was to put a long bolt in a short hole, it would have stuck out considerably, no?
 
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Old Apr 26, 2008 | 09:43 PM
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Default RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

I put a Napa TPS on my truck a year or so ago. I can't remember what I paid but I want to say it was like $40-50.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 01:29 PM
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Default RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

test the length of the bolt hole with a small piece of wire, to determine how long of a bolt you can possibly put in it. then check the thickness of the piece you are bolting through. this should allow you to decide if the bolt goes there or not. i think the longer bolts go through the main water jackets at the top of the timing cover. you can put a little rtv on those bolts to prevent leaks around the threads.

before buying tps, check the routing of your throttle cable to make sure its not binding. check the operation of the throttle plate while an assistant mashes/releases the gas pedal.

also, be sure you've reset your PCM since the repair. if not, your computer is still running on old parameters. there's no good reason for the idle behavior to have changed.

also have you got a tach, when you let off the gas, it should drop to about 600 rpm warm.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 07:32 PM
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Default RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

Yeah i'm leaning more toward one of my cables being defunct some way. the TPS wouldnt feel like a burnout, it would just be shaky shifting. the leak is tough because I didnt place the bolts in their spot, rather i bought a big box with dividers (mostly used for nails) and labeled the section where the bolts went, and it worked with this one exception. I was hoping the leak would have come from that specific hole, but I may just take down the accesory bracket again. It's really not hard once you do it once, lol. I was just too tired yesterday after everything.

Also, napa has two TPS, one is 41.99, the other is 44.99. I'd rather adjust some cables first, LOL.
 
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Old Apr 27, 2008 | 10:20 PM
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Default RE: Ok, got the block back together and it runs BUT

Now, when I got my timing cover gasket, it came with three gaskets; one for the timing cover, the one i needed, one for the water pump, sideways S looking gasket that I already had, and then a flying saucer looking gasket that I did not have to remove. I figured it came with two water pump gaskets because the water pumps differ so they just include two pump gaskets automatically. Is this true or should I have applied this flying saucer gasket somewhere?

also included the front seal, which I swapped out. Applied a little RTV to the outside rim and some lucas oil on the interior. Helps to have mechanic buddies with this stuff.
 
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