Rear end going out
#1
Rear end going out
Hey guys I took the cover off the rear diff and I have the big chuncks of the LSD clutch plate, so i need to replace it and i read some of the threads about this, and that i could go with a detroit trutrac (which I have in the front end of my jeep...good locker), or I could get the clutch replacement kit. But see the diff carrier has been gouged out a little when the clutch plate is broken into pieces. The ring and pinion are in fine shape, but then the toothed ring on the left side of the carrier i guess for the LSD, is ground down a little on one side I guess from one of the pieces rubbing on it. The truck has been fine just glad I caught it now. So my question is would I be ok still using the carrier I have and replace in clutches, will that toothed ring be a issue, and the little ground part in the carrier. Im trying to not have to worry about resetting the gears, I dont want to have to do the backlash and pinion and all that. If I found another carrier with 3.92 gears on it or if i put my ring on it would I be ok swaping it in? Thanks guys just let me know what yall think.
#2
RE: Rear end going out
the toothed gear, that you are talking about is for the speedometer, make sure that it is ok, or else your speedo will be off. Personally unless you do alot of offroading I would just rebuild the limited slip that you have, but I think you have to take it all apart to rebuild it
#3
RE: Rear end going out
Can I replace that toothed speedo gear? Also as long as everything comes off the carrier and goes back on the same way then the gears won't need to be reset right? Also what if I find another carrier with lsd and the same gears or I swap my ring onto it will I still be ok for a direct swap and not have to mess with setting the pinion depth again. Basically just not touch the pinion at all. Thanks for the help guys also the truck won't be for offroading, just DD and towing
#4
RE: Rear end going out
well standard open case (carrier) will run about $140-150 add to that parts (clutch pack + anything else wore out) compare that to the $510-520 for a truetrac and decide if you want to rebuild that unit again after another 100k miles or sit pretty with the truetrac for a very long time... ?
I'm going to put a truetrac in when a) im not lazy b) my garage doesnt get to 110 degrees during the day
and the part you are talking about is the ABS tone ring. The metal teeth pass near a magnetic sensor, the signal from the frequency of teeth passing the sensor is sent to the computer to control the ABS
If teeth are wore off to a point to where the sensor isnt able to detect that the diff is spinning, it can assume the diff is locked up and release/pulse your brakes for you even though in reality your wheels aren't locked up. Basically put you in ABS mode when not needed.
I'm going to put a truetrac in when a) im not lazy b) my garage doesnt get to 110 degrees during the day
and the part you are talking about is the ABS tone ring. The metal teeth pass near a magnetic sensor, the signal from the frequency of teeth passing the sensor is sent to the computer to control the ABS
If teeth are wore off to a point to where the sensor isnt able to detect that the diff is spinning, it can assume the diff is locked up and release/pulse your brakes for you even though in reality your wheels aren't locked up. Basically put you in ABS mode when not needed.
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#8
RE: Rear end going out
pinion depth shouldnt need adjustment. usu only when the ring/pinion is replaced you will have a new adjustment number on base of the pinion.if you got 100K+ miles might want to consider replacing pinion and carrier bearings maybe even axle bearings since you are going to be tearing it all out. if you skip replacing bearings, you will bypass the tedious task of getting your pinion in and sleeve crushed and preload set correctly.
abs tone ring goes on your carrier and the ring gear fits on top of the tone ring. I know the auburn diff's specify "abs ready" but I have read people using truetracs have that same notch cut out on the truetrac to fit the tone ring on. being that the ring is on all mid-90-up 9 1/4" diffs, shouldnt see why they wouldnt have the notch.
if you jsut repl the diff nothing else, id still get gear marking compound and check your pattern and also havea dial indicator to check backlash.
abs tone ring goes on your carrier and the ring gear fits on top of the tone ring. I know the auburn diff's specify "abs ready" but I have read people using truetracs have that same notch cut out on the truetrac to fit the tone ring on. being that the ring is on all mid-90-up 9 1/4" diffs, shouldnt see why they wouldnt have the notch.
if you jsut repl the diff nothing else, id still get gear marking compound and check your pattern and also havea dial indicator to check backlash.
#10
RE: Rear end going out
no,
keep existing ring & pinion (when replacing, both have to be replaced, all ring and pinions are created as a matched set)
the ABS tone ring is what may need replacement - teeth are wore off, the ABS magnetic sensor inside the diff may or may not get a good signal with teeth off. But if brakes worked fine before should probably be the same after. If brakes have been acting 'odd' might wanna get another tone ring. Once you unbolt the ring gear from the diff, and remove the ring gear, the ABS tone ring underneath will come right off. I really doubt a new diff will have the tone ring, I would expect they have you use your existing tone ring.
if replacing diff w/o replacing pinion bearings, might not need any adjustment. would check gear pattern with marking paint/grease after install AND check backlash with dial indicator. I would expect pinion depth to be exactly the same when just replacing the diff. *Might* need carrier bearing adjustment. I wouldn't just swap diff w/o pattern check and backlash check.
will need new carrier bearings for new diff, wouldn't pull old bearings and try to refit on new diff.
but, as i said, may be a good time to repl the pinion bearings... nothing could be worse than 5k miles from now, your rear end is whining as your pinion bearings fail. Depends on how many miles you got on existing bearings.
But once you take your pinion off, you got alot of precise work ahead to get it back on correctly: pinion depth, pre-load, backlash...
keep existing ring & pinion (when replacing, both have to be replaced, all ring and pinions are created as a matched set)
the ABS tone ring is what may need replacement - teeth are wore off, the ABS magnetic sensor inside the diff may or may not get a good signal with teeth off. But if brakes worked fine before should probably be the same after. If brakes have been acting 'odd' might wanna get another tone ring. Once you unbolt the ring gear from the diff, and remove the ring gear, the ABS tone ring underneath will come right off. I really doubt a new diff will have the tone ring, I would expect they have you use your existing tone ring.
if replacing diff w/o replacing pinion bearings, might not need any adjustment. would check gear pattern with marking paint/grease after install AND check backlash with dial indicator. I would expect pinion depth to be exactly the same when just replacing the diff. *Might* need carrier bearing adjustment. I wouldn't just swap diff w/o pattern check and backlash check.
will need new carrier bearings for new diff, wouldn't pull old bearings and try to refit on new diff.
but, as i said, may be a good time to repl the pinion bearings... nothing could be worse than 5k miles from now, your rear end is whining as your pinion bearings fail. Depends on how many miles you got on existing bearings.
But once you take your pinion off, you got alot of precise work ahead to get it back on correctly: pinion depth, pre-load, backlash...