360 5.9L sounds just like a rattling diesel all the time
Hey everybody, need some help. I've been reading about people replacing the plenum gaskets to fix the rattling diesel engine sound. Well, I replaced the underside plenum cover and intake gaskets. The sound didn't go away. From reading details about the plenum replacement process on this forum, I may not havedone some things right. I did not replace the plenum bolts with new ones, and snapped one from tightening to the correct torque. My question is this: Do I have the same problem and just need to redo the plenum gaskets or is this a spark knock sound. I have a video of the sound that it makes. Please watch the video. [/align] Thanks for any input.
2001 Dodge RAM 1500
5.9 360 V8 187,000
4x4[/align][/align]
2001 Dodge RAM 1500
5.9 360 V8 187,000
4x4[/align][/align]
maybe a bad crank bearing?
sounds like it coming from the lower engine area.
bad rod...?
bad lifter...?
what about power, engine smoke, and your mpg that are related to a bad plenum?
sounds like it coming from the lower engine area.
bad rod...?
bad lifter...?
what about power, engine smoke, and your mpg that are related to a bad plenum?
Seems to have good power, does not smoke. It is coming from the lower area of the motor. I did remove the oil pan to see if there were any parts lying inside it and nothing except some sludge. Also, the noise seems to be quieter from a cold start and after 10 seconds it is loud like you hear on the video. I also forgot to mention that the oil gauge and oil light would come on when stopping or slow idle. I installed a new oil sending unit and oil pump. The oil light came on again but, not as frequently. I then put 20/50 oil and the oil light does not come on anymore but, the knocking/rattling sound is louder.
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Yeah, I tried different oil viscosities with these results:
Thinner oils (15/30): less rattle, zero pressure on gauge (when at low idle)/oil light comes on.
Thicker oils (20/50): more rattle, good oil pressure/oil light stays off.
Looking over more information and talking this over with my brother it seems that the problem has to be the crank journals/sleeves? Can a person just get that fixed and what would something like that cost? Would it be better to just rebuild the whole motor? I does have 187,000 miles. Runs strong, smooth, no smoke, no seepage, no leaks, no oil loss. Just that clattering sound.
I should also mention that after I had purchased this truck, I bought a warranty plan through CARS WARRANTY. The transmission died within the month and I had that rebuilt. I had to pay extra for the tear-down and new rebuild result as I didn't like their option of locating a wrecking yard for a used transmission.
I'm wondering if I should see if they'll consider replacing/rebuilding the motor as well. They knew the mileage this truck had!
Thinner oils (15/30): less rattle, zero pressure on gauge (when at low idle)/oil light comes on.
Thicker oils (20/50): more rattle, good oil pressure/oil light stays off.
Looking over more information and talking this over with my brother it seems that the problem has to be the crank journals/sleeves? Can a person just get that fixed and what would something like that cost? Would it be better to just rebuild the whole motor? I does have 187,000 miles. Runs strong, smooth, no smoke, no seepage, no leaks, no oil loss. Just that clattering sound.
I should also mention that after I had purchased this truck, I bought a warranty plan through CARS WARRANTY. The transmission died within the month and I had that rebuilt. I had to pay extra for the tear-down and new rebuild result as I didn't like their option of locating a wrecking yard for a used transmission.
I'm wondering if I should see if they'll consider replacing/rebuilding the motor as well. They knew the mileage this truck had!
It's up to you, but if you can get a free salvage motor, for free, with say around 100,000 miles, I say do that.
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defintitely not spark knock.
sounds like a big piece of iron banging around. crank, rod, piston.
if you want to rebuild it, time to shut it down before it blows.
sounds like a big piece of iron banging around. crank, rod, piston.
if you want to rebuild it, time to shut it down before it blows.
Definetly have some slop in the lower end. You can swap the crank out for a reconditioned one for about 300 dollars. Kits come with new bearings and seals/gaskets. I would go ahead and replace the oil pump(100$) while I was in there. The clip sounded a little off to me so make sure to inspect all the wrist pins carefully. If you have one of those bad just get a new short block unless you want to tackle that project also. Fairly easy despite what people think.
Not being a jerk here, but are you sure you put the oil pump and sending unit in orrectly? prime the pump? Did you remove or loosen any bearing caps? Are you sure the oil drive shaft was slotted into the pump correctly? I'd pull the pan and inspect carefully, then reassemble and turn it over one last time before you start thinking rebuild.



