Paint Oxidation
Thread Starter
|
Professional
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 104
Likes: 1
From: Sacramento, CA
Paint Oxidation
My ram has a sever case of Paint Oxidation on the hood, roof and bed rails. I tried using a rubbing compound from turtle wax but it didn't do much. Anyone have any recommendations as to what to what I can do? Buffer? I will post some pics when there is day light outside.
Administrator
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 24,686
Likes: 21
From: South Georgia/East Florida
There is no way of just "getting rid" of oxidation, once a surface is oxidized, it's there to stay, since oxidation is a degradation of the surface. So, like it or not, the only way to a have the oxidation be gone is to remove the surface that contains it.
Any product that boasts oxidation removal, really takes a minute amount of the surface of the paint, or in the case of recent vehicles, the clear coat off. This is usually done with an abrasive material in the product. Hence the reason that the usual accepted way of removing oxidation is with a rubbing compound, which simply uses abrasives to do it's magic on oxidation, surface scratches, etc.
Try using a buffer with the rubbing compound and use a real wool pad. If this does not work, the other really effective method is to take a fine grit sandpaper (about 1200 grit) and wet sand the oxidation off. This method is the most effective, but you gotta know what you are doing, because you only want to take off just a minute surface of the clear coat and take it off evenly.
There are also a host of products on the market for oxidation removal, but all work with some type of "abrasive" material in the paste, so I doubt any are better than a good old rubbing compound.
It's important, no matter what product you use to remove the oxidation, that you use a polishing compound or similar product to treat surface scratches that are inevitable when using an abrasive compound on your vehicle, finishing with a good coat of a quality wax...
Any product that boasts oxidation removal, really takes a minute amount of the surface of the paint, or in the case of recent vehicles, the clear coat off. This is usually done with an abrasive material in the product. Hence the reason that the usual accepted way of removing oxidation is with a rubbing compound, which simply uses abrasives to do it's magic on oxidation, surface scratches, etc.
Try using a buffer with the rubbing compound and use a real wool pad. If this does not work, the other really effective method is to take a fine grit sandpaper (about 1200 grit) and wet sand the oxidation off. This method is the most effective, but you gotta know what you are doing, because you only want to take off just a minute surface of the clear coat and take it off evenly.
There are also a host of products on the market for oxidation removal, but all work with some type of "abrasive" material in the paste, so I doubt any are better than a good old rubbing compound.
It's important, no matter what product you use to remove the oxidation, that you use a polishing compound or similar product to treat surface scratches that are inevitable when using an abrasive compound on your vehicle, finishing with a good coat of a quality wax...
Last edited by HammerZ71; Aug 10, 2008 at 09:14 AM.
Champion
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,313
Likes: 8
When the clear coat layer begins to crack
and allow water in
it forms a milky haze like that.
Polishing it with compound will only make it worse, not better.
The only short term fix I know of is simple:
spray and rub WD-40 over the bad places
and it will displace the water trapped in the cracks temporarily... about 2-3 days.
repeat
repeat
until you can repaint
and allow water in
it forms a milky haze like that.
Polishing it with compound will only make it worse, not better.
The only short term fix I know of is simple:
spray and rub WD-40 over the bad places
and it will displace the water trapped in the cracks temporarily... about 2-3 days.
repeat
repeat
until you can repaint
