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Old 08-06-2015, 01:23 PM
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Headlamp Relay Write-up

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  #11  
Old 01-12-2010, 02:41 AM
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i dont think a newer switch would fit, jason, do you have a pic of your wires under the hood?
 
  #12  
Old 01-12-2010, 08:48 AM
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Ok Stupid question....why use the new harness? Is it because they give you more leeway in the amount of wire that you have?
 
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Old 01-12-2010, 12:02 PM
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so your power is being switched at the relay and not drawn through the weak headlight switch and has the possibility of making your lights brighter
 
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Old 12-06-2012, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by jasonw
This should not touch your fog lights at all, as I'm assuming they go through the headlamp switch in the cab like the headlights do.

You may also want to hook up a third relay for the fogs. My aftermarket fogs kit draws its power straight from the battery, to its own fuse, and then to an aftermarket switch before going to the lights. I even went and bought a nice heavy duty switch (its bolted down between the park brake release and the hood release) so that I won't have any problems with melting switches.



I just completed setting up a set of driving lights so that they only come on with my high beam headlights. (I used a relay so I don't burn up switches.) But for some reason my lights won't turn on again after you cycle from High beams to low beams back to high beams.... and I can turn them on with the headlight switch in the off position.... but it shouldn't do that because the switch side of the relay gets its power directly from the high beam headlights then runs through the dash switch then the relay and to ground. So if the high beams Arent turned on then the driving lights shouldn't be able to be turned on correct? And any ideas on why the won't come on unless I use the dash switch? Then won't turn back on after I cycle the dimmer switch from High (on) to low (off) back to high (on)? Thanks.
 
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Old 12-06-2012, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by THOR117
but it shouldn't do that because the switch side of the relay gets its power directly from the high beam headlights then runs through the dash switch then the relay and to ground.
Add some vehicle details to your profile and/or your signature so it's possible for us non-mind readers to address your specific vehicle. That said:

The mistake you've made is in assuming that B+ (battery positive) is switched in and out to make the filaments burn. It's not. In stock configuration, B+ is applied to the lamp common terminal and ground is switched to the filament that's to be turned on.

The circuit you need goes like this:

B+ --> relay coil --> your added on/off dash switch --> headlight high beam conductor.

With it wired like that, when your switch is closed and ground is switched into the high beam conductor, current will flow through the relay coil. When you flick back to low beam, the ground will be removed from the high beam conductor and current will stop flowing in the relay coil. Just as expected.
 
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Old 11-06-2013, 09:01 PM
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I did a sport headlight install on my 96 that had regular headlights. I installed new switch and pigtails and don't have problems, but don't want any in the future. I'd like to add relays but don's see instructions for my application. I need to have highs and lows on when I switch to high beams. Any wiring diagram for my conversion out there?
 
  #17  
Old 08-24-2015, 10:27 AM
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I can't seem to load the wiring diagram. Does anyone have a copy
 
  #18  
Old 08-25-2015, 09:09 AM
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I can't seem to load the diagram in the write up. Does anyone have a wiring diagram?
 
  #19  
Old 08-25-2015, 08:52 PM
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Five year old thread.... I *think* there is another write up in the FAQ/DIY section though. Might poke your head in there, and have a look.
 



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