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  #31  
Old 11-24-2008, 11:40 PM
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Haha, don't forget you removed the lifters, distributor, and timing chain too. lol, make it sound like ya did something at least
 

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  #32  
Old 11-25-2008, 12:05 AM
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oh yeah them damn lifters that didn't wanna let go
 
  #33  
Old 11-25-2008, 12:48 AM
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Jinx, that #4 cam bearing looks just like mine did. I'm still not sure if I caused the damage when I pulled out the cam or it had just deteriorated that way over time. My recommendation is to just replace the damaged #4 bearing. If you try to replace them all, you may not be able to get your new cam installed. I had to really work at polishing the new bearing down with an abrasive pad to get my cam to fit satisfactorily. PM me if you need any tips or photos on replacing that cam bearing.
 
  #34  
Old 11-25-2008, 02:33 AM
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Thanks for the tip but beings i gotta do it I'm gonna replace them all. I just can't think that if I don't and another one goes bad that I could have prevented it. Its like a $50 insurance policy in a way. Where did you get that tool that you used? i still need to order the set I'm thinking i might get them through summit. Its a little cheaper then even the places close by. Money is shrinking and nt coming in fast enough to finish this as fast as I wanted too. I still need to order rr's, pushrods, wideband, trans temp guage, a piller pod and the sct. I know I don't ned the wideband and trans guage to run it but would like to have all the drilling and stuff done before i fire it up.
 
  #35  
Old 12-06-2008, 07:56 PM
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Well we pulled the engine today. It was my first time pulling an engine an it was more of a pain in the *** then I thought. Didn't do anything to it today cause it was snowing and i was getting hungry. maybe I'll go yank some stuff out of it tomorrow.
 
  #36  
Old 12-07-2008, 11:45 AM
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Are you still going to do the short block, or are you going to rebuild your old block?
 
  #37  
Old 12-07-2008, 12:24 PM
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Ah for budget purposes I'll probably rebuild mine. I have to get it apart and go talk to the machine shop. Which ever is cheaper I'll go with
 
  #38  
Old 12-07-2008, 12:48 PM
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I would talk to the machine shop first before you break it down. Plus, if you do an exchange they may want a complete assembled core.
 
  #39  
Old 12-07-2008, 01:51 PM
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See the thing is I wanna take the piston with me. I want to see if he can grind them marks out while he's cleaning stuff up. That way I will know if I need new ones. I have talked ti this guy before when I started my 514 project. He's pretty damn cheap and does a great job. I honestly can't see it costing as much as the built short block. If it is and they want it together I'll slap the bitch together. Their only gonna take it apart again
 
  #40  
Old 12-07-2008, 02:30 PM
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Well, to do the job right, the machine shop is going to bore your block by at least .030 over and you'll need 30-over pistons anyway. If you feel a noticable ridge in your cylinders, I can guarantee your machinist will have to overbore your block. Anything less is a waste of time and money. Your call.
 


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