Question: Can ya bleed a slave cylinder?
#1
Question: Can ya bleed a slave cylinder?
OK, so it's been over a year since I swapped my 46RE for an NV3500 as posted here, and thankyou for all the kind remarks. Everything has been perfect since then until yesterday.
Out of the blue my clutch pedal didn't move from the full up position and froze in place. I got it back home shifting without the clutch, (good thing I had practiced this before).
So now I have taken the slave cylinder off from the tranny and the piston moves freely by hand. I disconnected the push-rod from the pedal unit and the pedal moves freely but again once the push-rod is connected to the pedal cluster and the slave cylinder is off the tranny the pedal still wont move from the full up position.
So I'm thinking it's the fluid in the line between my push-rod from the firewall and the slave cylinder.....so, can you bleed a slave cylinder?, because I dont see any way to do it. No bleed valves or screws, etc.
Thanx for any and all input.
CD
PS: No CEL lights as asked by quite a few from my last job and I didn't have to swap out my PCM, it took to the "new" tranny without any issues
Out of the blue my clutch pedal didn't move from the full up position and froze in place. I got it back home shifting without the clutch, (good thing I had practiced this before).
So now I have taken the slave cylinder off from the tranny and the piston moves freely by hand. I disconnected the push-rod from the pedal unit and the pedal moves freely but again once the push-rod is connected to the pedal cluster and the slave cylinder is off the tranny the pedal still wont move from the full up position.
So I'm thinking it's the fluid in the line between my push-rod from the firewall and the slave cylinder.....so, can you bleed a slave cylinder?, because I dont see any way to do it. No bleed valves or screws, etc.
Thanx for any and all input.
CD
PS: No CEL lights as asked by quite a few from my last job and I didn't have to swap out my PCM, it took to the "new" tranny without any issues
#4
Your write up is a bit confusing. It sounds like you have a problem with the clutch master cylinder. There is no fluid in a push rod. If the push rod is disconnected from the clutch pedal, and the pedal by itself moves freely, the master cylinder piston is giving you the problem. Loosen the hydraulic fitting on the slave cylinder and try moving the clutch pedal with everything else connected. With a way for the fluid to escape there should be no problem moving the pedal. If you can't move the pedal the problem is in the master cylinder. Be careful with the fluid when you loosen the fitting at the slave because it is harmful to paint.
#5
#6
I just double checked the manual and the news is not good. The Haynes book says the system is one piece and is replaced as a unit. The hose appears to be held on by crimp fittings in the photos so it should be removable, but it says service as a unit without disassembly of individual components.
Sorry!
Sorry!
#7
APA thats what I thought, and to service and remove the unit is a nightmare, ya gotta pull the pedal cluster off the firewall, hopefully I can get to it by just loosening the pedal cluster and without having to remove the cluster.
If thats the case I'll have to pull the dash and steering column off..............AGAIN.
Thats why I was hoping for some good news about bleeding so I wouldn't have to go thru this nightmare but alas.
Thanx anyhow, I'll post any updates as I see fit
CD
If thats the case I'll have to pull the dash and steering column off..............AGAIN.
Thats why I was hoping for some good news about bleeding so I wouldn't have to go thru this nightmare but alas.
Thanx anyhow, I'll post any updates as I see fit
CD
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#8
Just be careful when replacing. Make sure the plastic line goes between the brake lines and the frame/body of the truck. If you dont do this and are lazy it will be swinging free and bouncing off the exhaust manifild. One day you will push in on the clutch and it will go straight to the floor. You will be spewing white smoke down the road.
Some idiot had replaced it before I bought my truck and didnt do it right. Factory only part. $$$$
Some idiot had replaced it before I bought my truck and didnt do it right. Factory only part. $$$$
#9
The manuel is a not right. I baught both the master cylinder and slave seperate from a local parts store. My only problem was I didn't know what needed to replace. Bleeding was tricky.
For the slave cylinder do this
I first took the 2 bolts off the slave and removed it it seem to work ok by pushing in by hand slowly. The master looked harder to remove so I baught the slave anyway (it was cheaper) about $75 total cost. I got it home and followed the cr@py instructions.
By the way there is a 1 roll pin you have to push out on side where the tube attaches to the slave. Don't get fluid in your eyes! The end of the tube has a brass tip and a rubber seal (slave and master come with roll pin and seal for assembly)
Here is the trick to bleed (its messy) fill the slave with fluid before attaching the tube from master C. Make sure to extend the push rod on the slave while u fill it to get it full as posible.
Its messy I guess this is why it should be serviced as a unit like the book says.
When you get it full. put the rubber seal on the end of the brass part of the tube and stick it together pressing the roll pin back in place (with any luck you wont have fluid running down your arm like i did)
Now you can slowly push the slave rod in to re attach the little keeper that holds it in while rebolting to tranny.
I did not figure out how to bleed the system until after i had returned to the part store to try the new master cylinder $89 added to my cost.
The master cyinder also has 2 bolts up under the dash. (You don't have to tear out the dash) I removed the clip holding pushrod on clutch pedal unpluged breaklight switch remove the2 bolts and shoved it all though the firewall unbolted the resuvior and turn the master to get to the roll pin on the tube going to the slave. I cut the pushrod with a hacksaw to remove the break switch it has clips holding it into the master c I was pissed by then and the new master had a pushrod with it.
Be sure to get the switch back on new pushrod before sticking it into the master C as it will not come out again easily. Bleed it the same as the slave filling it all the way with fluid before hooking to tube with new seal and roll pin. It will be hard to push in by hand when full but should work ok hooked back up to pedal.
This took me about 3 hrs but I could do it again in about 30-45 now I installed and removed several times utill I figured all this out. I also had break fluid everywhen by the time I was done.
I hope this helps
For the slave cylinder do this
I first took the 2 bolts off the slave and removed it it seem to work ok by pushing in by hand slowly. The master looked harder to remove so I baught the slave anyway (it was cheaper) about $75 total cost. I got it home and followed the cr@py instructions.
By the way there is a 1 roll pin you have to push out on side where the tube attaches to the slave. Don't get fluid in your eyes! The end of the tube has a brass tip and a rubber seal (slave and master come with roll pin and seal for assembly)
Here is the trick to bleed (its messy) fill the slave with fluid before attaching the tube from master C. Make sure to extend the push rod on the slave while u fill it to get it full as posible.
Its messy I guess this is why it should be serviced as a unit like the book says.
When you get it full. put the rubber seal on the end of the brass part of the tube and stick it together pressing the roll pin back in place (with any luck you wont have fluid running down your arm like i did)
Now you can slowly push the slave rod in to re attach the little keeper that holds it in while rebolting to tranny.
I did not figure out how to bleed the system until after i had returned to the part store to try the new master cylinder $89 added to my cost.
The master cyinder also has 2 bolts up under the dash. (You don't have to tear out the dash) I removed the clip holding pushrod on clutch pedal unpluged breaklight switch remove the2 bolts and shoved it all though the firewall unbolted the resuvior and turn the master to get to the roll pin on the tube going to the slave. I cut the pushrod with a hacksaw to remove the break switch it has clips holding it into the master c I was pissed by then and the new master had a pushrod with it.
Be sure to get the switch back on new pushrod before sticking it into the master C as it will not come out again easily. Bleed it the same as the slave filling it all the way with fluid before hooking to tube with new seal and roll pin. It will be hard to push in by hand when full but should work ok hooked back up to pedal.
This took me about 3 hrs but I could do it again in about 30-45 now I installed and removed several times utill I figured all this out. I also had break fluid everywhen by the time I was done.
I hope this helps