that plenum down there is your only vacuum source so the booster will have to get its vacuum from there. your iat sensor... coming off runner #8?

your fuel rail mounting points... I dont see them, how are they handled?

edit: oh yeah... the pvc you do not want to delete...

 

Steve, you had just about every question I had when I opened the box. Here's what Marty told me when I called:

He said, do not put the IAT in the EGR port on the #8 runner, relocate it in front of the Radiator or at least into the air hat. The intake can get up to 180* and that's not good or anywhere near ambient temp. I'm going to cut a 1/2" hole in the bottom of my air hat and use a flat retaining collar nut to hold it up in there. I'll take the IAT into the hardware store to size it up. I know some folks around here don't agree with the IAT relocate, but Marty seemed a little surprised that I was still running it in it's stock location.

As far as the Fuel Rail goes, he said that the adapter plate was only designed to be anchored to the Air Gap by two bolts on opposite corners. The two large bolt anchors are actually the fuel rail mounts, it's a reverse setup, you actually run a bolt thru the adapter and tighten the rails in 2 points to the adapter. I asked him if 2 points (one on each side) was enough to hold down the fuel rails into the injector ports on the Air Gap. He said unless I was running massive boost there's no way the injectors would push out of the manifold. Marty assured me he's run this setup before with no problems. It's tough to see in the pics, but the injector bosses are tilted inward toward the center, that should assist with the downward force. I'm going to try it Marty's way, but I'm thinking about asking the machine shop to fab me up 2 brackets that can span from the adapter mounting points to the empty fuel rail mounts as well.

When I asked him about the vac accessory bracket, brake booster, PCV ports missing, he suggested tapping the back of the adapter with NPT fittings and said that should work well.

Here's an article on manifold vacuum, so I'm assuming since the ports will be post TB, I'll still get adequate vacuum, right?

 

Yes. It shouldn't be any different than the keg was.

Good luck with your install!

 

you should have all the vacuum signal you'll need porting it at the back of the adapter. How tall is the adapter?

I disagree with the IAT thoughts there... the way the sensor is setup the shell would get the heat soak, not the element. pop it out and you'll see what I'm saying (hopefully I remember it right). I would tap an IAT port on the back of the adapter and put it there. reason being that since there is such a small plenum area the air does not have time to stagnate (sp?) in the intake and get heatsoaked. In that location you will have a good indicator (IMO) of the airflow temp which would yield the best performance (again IMO). The adapter must have a gasket separating it from the intake correct? that gasket will give a slight insulating effect to the adapter which will help minimize any heat soak the sensor shell/housing might get.

On the audi I have one of these... power gasket which is supposed to insulate the intake from heat soak from the head, works ok but not great as it's a turbo application.

If you put the sensor on the rear as I suggested and are not happy with it there, you always have the option of relocating it and putting a flush type of plug that has an allen type of head on it. Nothing sticks out when inserted, its flush (have them on my rams intake)

Also, are you planning a DIY writeup & performance review of the intake install? I can link it in the DIY section that is getting fixed (I'm still working on it).

 

I suppose I could do a write up on it. I do feel like I'm already getting in a little over my head! As it stands now, I have a strong feeling that most folks here aren't going to want to do this one, I think it isn't going to be a straight bolt on install, but I'll post up what I do as I go.

Today I stopped by the local NAPA and bought a brass T-fitting, nipples, and adapters to screw into the open port on the #8 runner. I picked up new longer hoses for the vac accessories, PCV, and brake booster ports, a new longer heater return hose as my current one is cut for the passenger side, a new bypass hose (so much easier just to cut it off), a brass plug for the extra coolant temp sensor port, wire to extend the IAT, a 3/8" tap and drill bit.

I'm thinking about running the vac accessories and Brake booster thru that T into the #8 runner. Actually, I'm going to need to take it back and buy an L shaped one instead because one of the nipples coming off the "T" points straight at a fuel injector. Or I could just tap the driver's side of the adapter for the Brake booster and run the vac accessories to the port on the #8 runner. The wall of the adapter is a little thinner on that side though, so I'm not sure. My one concern with the T is that there won't be enough Vac supplied for the brake booster and accessories thru just that T, since it's down that one runner.

I also tapped the back of the TB adapter and installed the nipple for the PCV. I'm leary of tapping the IAT into the adapter as I'm concerned about the size of that particular hole into the adapter, I don't want more cracking issues. Also, I know it's probably a longshot, but I don't want PCV blowby to shoot straight at the IAT. I'll figure something out. I was thinking of buying 2 flat bolts, kind of like the ones you use in light fixtures on either side of the IAT to hold it in place. We have an Ace Hardware that is pretty well stocked with odds and ends of that nature. Threw in the coolant temp sensor plug with a dab of RTV as well.

I also had to cut just a bit of the air gap down to get the bolts to run up thru the adapter ports for the fuel rail mounts. I pulled the fuel rail off the current manifold and tried to do a quick mock assembly on the air gap. One fuel rail fit right like it was supposed to, the other was too high, but as it was getting a little too dark, I had to reassemble the truck for work tomorrow and didn't get time to diagnose the exact problem. I have a feeling that I may want to have a bracket fabbed up fo the other end of the rail. I just can't see those injectors staying put on their own. Oh yeah, I was incorrect about how it mounts, the mounting point on the rail actually goes on top of the towers of the adapter, not underneath as I had originally thought.

Won't have time for a few days to tear into it again, so we're taking a break for now.

 

Squirrels, I finally was able to check out the pic of your new intake. This is just a suggestion, but you might want to look at the Hughes version to see how they dealt with the vacuum accessory ports and fuel rail brackets:

http://www.hughesengines.com/itemMedia/_src/1002623.jpg

This may be a better/cleaner option for you than drilling/tapping the adapter. I think you should be able to get a machine shop to drill and press-in new vacuum nipples directly into the plenum. I think that would be better than trying to tee into the large port you have on the #8 runner. The fuel rail brackets look like they could be duplicated with a metal brake pretty easily as well.

I'm also with Steve on the IAT. I think you should just screw it into the #8 runner and go with it. Don't really see how it would be that much different from its original position in the keg. There is no jacket water flowing through that section of the intake anyway.

 

son of a...

I never saw that Kit at Hughes, looks like Marty resold me a little something.

 

I would not use the #8 runner for a vacuum source, your vacuum signal will unstable.

 

Okay okay, I'll put the IAT in the runner and tap the adapter, or maybe the side of the air gap like the Hughes pic shows. I might even be able to peel the IAT wires out of the wiring harness and not have to cut the wires to relocate it.

I actually called Hughes today about their adapter and fuel mounts, they wanted $175 for just those three pieces. I think I'll try and fab something up on my own, or talk to a local machine shop, before I go that route. That'll totally wipe out the savings that Marty gave me. It looked a little more stable at the fuel rail anchor points than where I was, but I'll know more when I get a chance to have the truck out of commission for a few days.

Reading the performance sheet on that air gap at the Hughes site kind of whet my appetite for getting it done, hopefully I'll get some time next week to start working on it.

They're kit is completely bolt up if you have the $730 just lying around. We need another economic stimulus check.

 

Got home from the weekend trip a little earlier than expected today, so I tapped the adapter twice more for the vac accessory tree and another port for the PCV. All 3 ports are now in the adapter. Tomorrow I'll try hooking up the fuel rail and seeing what needs to be done (if anything) to secure the rail to the intake. Going to double check and make sure the IAT fits in the #8 runner and clears the fuel rails and new port taps.