DIY tip - spark plugs
#1
11-07-2008, 10:14 PM
DIY tip - spark plugs
Here are some tips for replacing the spark plugs:
The tools in the picture were all I needed. The socket has a rubber insert that grips the plug so the plug doesn't fall out of the socket. I only used the short extension for plugs 5 & 7. I used the long for all others. The Sharpie is to write the cylinder # on the plug wire boot and the old plug.
Remove the plug wire boot by twisting and pulling at the same time. Try to pull on the boot so the wire doesn't pull out of the boot. They can be tough to get off so you may have to grunt a few times.
Use the air gun or a can of compressed air from a dept store to blow the dirt from around the plug. Break the plug loose a few turns and blow out the rest of the dirt. What percentage of repair shops do you think let dirt fall into the cylinder? Remove old plug and put the cylinder # on it. Inspect each plug and compare it to the others. They should all look the same from a healthy engine.
Make sure the tip on the new plug where the wire boot goes is tight. I hold the plug with a wrench and tighten the tip with plyers.
Set the gap with a feeler gauge don't use that round thing.
Install new plug and tighten. Put the dielectric grease inside the end of the boot and push it on the plug until you hear it snap. The grease makes it easier to remove the boots in the future.
In my opinion, the key thing is to prevent dirt from getting into the cylinder.
It doesn't take long, it was only a 2 beer job.
The tools in the picture were all I needed. The socket has a rubber insert that grips the plug so the plug doesn't fall out of the socket. I only used the short extension for plugs 5 & 7. I used the long for all others. The Sharpie is to write the cylinder # on the plug wire boot and the old plug.
Remove the plug wire boot by twisting and pulling at the same time. Try to pull on the boot so the wire doesn't pull out of the boot. They can be tough to get off so you may have to grunt a few times.
Use the air gun or a can of compressed air from a dept store to blow the dirt from around the plug. Break the plug loose a few turns and blow out the rest of the dirt. What percentage of repair shops do you think let dirt fall into the cylinder? Remove old plug and put the cylinder # on it. Inspect each plug and compare it to the others. They should all look the same from a healthy engine.
Make sure the tip on the new plug where the wire boot goes is tight. I hold the plug with a wrench and tighten the tip with plyers.
Set the gap with a feeler gauge don't use that round thing.
Install new plug and tighten. Put the dielectric grease inside the end of the boot and push it on the plug until you hear it snap. The grease makes it easier to remove the boots in the future.
In my opinion, the key thing is to prevent dirt from getting into the cylinder.
It doesn't take long, it was only a 2 beer job.
Last edited by lv360ram; 11-08-2008 at 12:10 AM. Reason: added picture
#2
11-08-2008, 06:54 AM
good write up
for those new to changing spark plugs
it is worth knowing about
what troublesome conditions
cause what distinct appearance on the old plugs:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...q/faqread2.asp
for those that don't mind spending a bit more of their time
consider indexing the position of the ground strap
to suit each cylinder:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...gs/index.shtml
a picture of the 5.2/5.9 magnum V8 combustion chamber:
for those new to changing spark plugs
it is worth knowing about
what troublesome conditions
cause what distinct appearance on the old plugs:
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...q/faqread2.asp
for those that don't mind spending a bit more of their time
consider indexing the position of the ground strap
to suit each cylinder:
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...gs/index.shtml
a picture of the 5.2/5.9 magnum V8 combustion chamber:
#3
11-08-2008, 07:02 AM
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#4
11-08-2008, 10:03 AM
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