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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 05:13 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by dhvaughan
hey and welcome to df. nice posts. considering the age of the truck, i'd go ahead and pull the other head, and take both to a machine shop for checking/rebuild. you'll want to replace seals for sure, possibly guides, and check for flat. while you're in there, if you don't already have an aluminum plenum belly plate, go ahead and replace that too. you can get it from hughes or aps. while you've got it apart, hows the water pump, timing chain, and front and rear seal ?
I will follow your advice and pull the other head too so i can bring them to the machine shop. I have a big suspicion that the engine has been rebuild before, but I'm not sure about that. If i want to change the front and rear seal i have to pull the engine out,right? If so, i think I'm gonna pass, i don't want to spend to much money on this car, i will have to spend lots more to the bodywork and interior. The previous owner was a heavy smoker, bad cleaner, bad driver, worked with horses all day and didn't bother cleaning off his shoe's when he entered the truck so I'm stuck with a cab full of horse sh*t, tar all over the place and the bed needs bodywork at the corners... this car is more like a winter project.
Luckily I'm a sheet metal worker (used to be) and the bodywork and carpeting isn't to much of a hassle to do, but it takes time and money. I'll post my bodywork project in another topic, I'll try to make a DIY topic with pic's.

Greetz,

Bigster
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:22 AM
  #12  
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no, you don't have to pull the engine to replace either.

rear seal is replaced by removing braces, starter, dust cover, oil pan, oil pump, and loosening the main caps. its a 2 piece seal that wraps around. if/when you're dropping the oil pan, its an easy next step. i replaced mine and it stopped that annoying leak.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/rearmain.php

front seal is in the timing cover. its replaced by removing water pump and harmonic balancer. you can replace the seal with timing cover on, or remove timing cover and replace seal and chain/sprockets. this stops the annoying leak from the front.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/timingchain.php
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:36 AM
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if you put performance heads on, do you need to do anything else to the motor
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 10:10 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by lastrights
if you put performance heads on, do you need to do anything else to the motor
I suppose this is a question? Well, there's no need to change more, you just have to do the same thing as i'm doing right now. If you're putting performance heads on you might do some extra jobs to have more performance like new push rods, new lifters, roller rocker- arms with a bigger ratio, put some headers on, performance exhaust system, it's very easy to get by the distributor when your heads are off so i recommend to put a new msd distributor with new ignition ecu, new sparkplug wires and spark plugs. If you wanna go all the way, stroke it! If you stroke the engine, you might wanna take care about the transmition and brakes (you're gonna need them!)...
It's like a game of domino, once you begin and you wanna have it done right and get the max of horsepower out of your engine, you have to check everything from beginning to the end.

Greetz,

Bigster
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 04:18 PM
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lol i better start saving, i may just put in a crate motor thats bored out, when this one hits the bucket. 127xxx already.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 07:52 PM
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yeah, that's one way, but I rather enjoy the fun of making my own engine if i had the money...
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 08:05 PM
  #17  
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if you go too big on the heads, you'll need a programmer of flash to deal with the larger flow you've just added. You definitely need a programmer or flash to maximize it.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 03:21 AM
  #18  
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That's the only thing that I'm not to good at: all those flash and programmer things... I'm used to work on more vintage mopars
 
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Old Nov 11, 2008 | 05:09 AM
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I finally brought my heads to the shop Today is a holiday in Belgium so I'll have to wait till the end of the week to know the results
Since i have some spare time on my hands i started to clean up my engine compartment and all of the parts that go in there. I bought a quart of silver POR20 heat resistant paint a few months ago and was dying to try it out so i painted my headers and intake so that my engine looks nicer once everything is installed. I'll try to make some pics this afternoon.

I also took off the injectors and fuel rail.... OH MY GOD!
I have never seen injectors more clogged than these! I took off one injector and looked at the top and it was flat like a flat top piston! The hole was buried in rust and filth and was closed all the way! The fuel rail was filled with brown-red fuel (if i can call it fuel), so I flushed the whole fuel rail with carb cleaner until there was only clear fluid coming out. I cleaned the injectors with a very small screwdriver and lots of carb cleaner, I think I had 4 injectors fully clogged! There was actually mud coming out of the top of the fuel injectors ! Lets hope that they aren't shot, because these are very expensive to get around here...

Except for that problem, i think I'm gonna paint the alternator mounting bracket as well, it's gonna give that little touch of new in the background of the engine . Off course that means that i will have some fun cleaning the alternator and a/c compressor... oh damn, here we go again

Hope to C y'all this evening with some nice pics...

Greetz,

Bigster
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 03:12 AM
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A little update with pics:

For those who asked pics of the truck, here's the backside:
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And the front:
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A pic of the engine compartment:

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And here are the results of the paint with POR20:

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I also received a trackingnumber of my parts, they arrive today!! I just have to wait for my heads to return from the machine shop...

Greetz,

Bigster
 
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