sorry to hear about the injectors and the bad stuff found in them

before going back together with your engine
consider checking or replacing the flexible fuel line running back to the tank
as the interior lining of this line may have broken down
and let the fuel come in contact with the steel wire reinforcing braid,
which then corroded and caused the red colored stuff you found

the black stuff would pieces of the interior liner

it is only a guess
but perhaps this happened because of the propane conversion
and the gasoline did not move through the old fuel line
but stayed there for a long time?

if it were me
I would check the 'quench clearance' of each of the 8 pistons
while the heads are off

Edelbrock Magnum aluminum cylinder heads have smaller combustion chambers
and better flow ratings

the increased compression ratio with the Edelbrock cylinder heads would probably improve your fuel efficiency

good luck with your work

 

I was thinking the same way, i will probably flush the fuel tank later next week. The propane conversion has it's up- & downsides, I think the previous owner was to cheap to run a fuel tank once per few months, because it is impossible to drive with those injectors! I'm looking on ebay to find some good used fuel rails so i can replace them. The fuel line itself looks to be in great condition, like it's been replaced already, and the fuel that's coming out is nice and clear.

I have the standard heads on, and i intend to keep it that way, edelbrock heads are cool and a good upgrade, but it's to pricey for me at the moment (the cost of 2 heads is 2000 dollar over here).

Greetz,

Bigster

 

just got news from the machine shop, and it ain't good

The heads are cracked beyond repair, even worse is that the heads already had a repair before, they actually welded some cracks that were in the valve seats and then reground the valve seats... The machine shop just didn't want to begin repairing that.

So for the moment : I'm screwed

Does anybody have some spare heads that are for sale and willing to ship to Europe?

Greetz,

Biggie

 

anybody?

 

alright, no need to reply anymore for the heads, found some new one's. They cost me 1500$ with new valve's and springs, i just have to bolt them on the engine and take it for a spin.

I'm not sure but what does new heads cost for the 360 magnum in the States?

Thanx everyone!

Greetz,

Bigster

 

just to show how f*$@ed up the heads were:




Some people should never work on cars...

 

I can see the reason for no compression but not the oil leakage into the cylinder. Before putting the new heads on try putting some oil into the #6 cylinder over night and see if it stays in or drains out. The usual cause of smoke when the engine is idling is valva guides and the ones visible in your photos do not look too bad. Unless the hole visible in the one shot goes to an oil area on the top of the head or the guide bores are shot you coulg have bad rings too. Guides cause smoke on deceleation and rings on acceleration. Hate to see wasted work when a little more checking can save a lot of future time and trouble.

 

well, the oil problem is pretty easy, i was missing about one and a half inch of head gasket at cylinder #6, it was blown off. The oil was coming from under the intake into the cylinder. Once every downstroke it sucked some oil in the cylinder and upstroke gave me pressure into the valvecovers wich explains all of the symptoms i had. I did a compressiontest without and with some oil in the cylinder but it stayed the same, i will follow your advice (doesn't harm anything) and pour some oil into that cylinder and see what it does.

Thanx!

Bigster

 

well that sucks.
quick search on ebay/internet says that new, loaded heads start at about 300-400 each.
http://www.acheinc.com/productlist.php
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-L...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chrys...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHRYS...2em118Q2el1247

 

sorry to hear about the conditions of the old heads

if the replacement heads are cast iron are not already on
you might want to ask your machinist
if he could 'temper' the replacement heads
at about 550 degree F in an oven
to reduce the tendency for the electro-hardened metal
around the valve seats to cause cracking

good luck