http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...a%20Magnum.pdf


I strongly suggest you only do this if you know there is a problem. You can really mess up the idle and running quality of the engine if you don't get it right. If your happy with the way your truck idles, don't get greedy.

That disclaimer noted, here's a couple of tips I've found have helped me:

You need a helper to watch the rpms. It's so much easier than trying to "hear" it.

The screw in the OEM and Fastman TB's is a #25 torx screw. Same as the bolts that hold all the sensors to the TB.

You need to get the IAC port completely blocked off. Any leakage will falsely raise the idle a bit while you're adjusting and cause the end result to idle too low. The engine can actually backfire thru the TB when it's cold and you get on it.

There's a "sweet spot" that's just before the engine rpms spike up a large amount, that's the spot your looking for, right on the threshold of the spike from 750~800 up to 1000rpms.

If your drive it and the engine feels like it "hangs" after letting off the gas, it isn't right. readjust.

The rpm needle should drop immediately when you let off the gas, like dropping a stone, not dryer lint or a feather.

I could not fit my fat thumb down into the TB as pictured. I don't know what the age of the child is that they used in that photo, but I don't know if any adult man could get his thumb down there. I used a very tiny pry bar that I wrapped in a lot of electrical tape. About 10ft of tape. The tape helped cushion the IAC plunger and push it back thru the opening while sealing the port hole. I am not sure if depressing the plunger is 100% necessary or if you could merely plug the entire IAC port area with your palm on top of the rear of the TB, but the TB gets kind of hot after a 5 min warm up. I just tried to do it exactly as Marty described. Perhaps someone with more experience could chime in.