Late last summer I replaced the heater core. After reassembly I noted that the gear selector for the column shifter does not properly align with the letters. Also, I have no reverse lights. I'm thinking there's something out of whack with the adjustment in the column -- correct? I would appreciate any guidance regarding this issue.

 

remove the knee panel under the column. there is a white plastic thumb wheel that adjusts the tension on a small cable that goes up to the prndl display. the cable moves the red line indicator thingy. pull it down in drive and adjust it there, then check where it sits in reverse. adjust for a best fit.

reverse lights on an automatic are turned on by the reverse/neutral switch on the drivers side of trans, near the front, near the linkage. when trans is in reverse, something on the inside is supposed to slide over and close that switch. after that its just wires back to the rear.

 

That little shift cable is suppose to be disconnected when the dash is removed or just propped up out of the way to remove the heat/ac box. If you followed the instructions in the DIY section, it does not say to do this. I always tell people to unhook it when I see posts on here about doing that job. So you just knocked it out of whack, and need to adjust it like dhvaughan said.

 

mine did the same thing... I just installed extra "helper" lights!! hahaha

you can get them on ebay for about $15 bucks! just search headache rack.. they should be at the bottom of the page

 

Red-line indicator thingy? Man, I didn't expect his topic to get so technical
I figured it was the white adjustment screw assy. As usual, thanks for the assistance, guys. Normally, I'd dig in and figure it all out; however, I'm busier than hell cutting up some VW's and getting ready for another major scrap metal haul.

iwhitne, those assistance lights look like a great addition. I might install something like that on my truck.

While we're at it, my driver's side tail light, O/D light, dome light, and cargo light don't work. I suspect it's due to a faulty headlight switch as I've checked all of the fuses and they're all good. Any ideas?

 

I am having the EXACT same problem...now I know what to look for but I am like the other person as I already bought backup lights to install! They are 55W but I have 130 watt bulbs ready if I want to run a heavier gauge file.

Think 130 watt backup lights too much?

 

*BUMP*

Any assistance regarding the inop lights that I think are related to the headlight switch?

 

I hope you checked or replaced the bulbs?:-) If it was the switch I would think both tail lights would not work.

 

For your taillight problem check the connectors on the harness and the condition of the socket. You do not say if the stop lamp illuminates or not so it is hard to say if it is wiring related or not. For the dome and cargo lights check fuse 12 again. That supplies the feed to the lights which is always hot. The rotating part of the headlight switch makes up the circuit to ground. If the door switches do not put on the dome light pull the light down and check the wiring to see if you have a 12 volt feed on the pink wire. If not the fuse or a connector is bad.

 

Yeah, I replaced the tail lamp bulb and still nothing. I thought it odd that the light that illuminates the headlight switch, the dome light, driver's tail lamp, and the light that illuminates the O/D switch all went out around the same time. Yes, the brake lights on both sides illuminate as does the dome light when the door is opened.

I'll check all of the above this weekend and report back.