One paw on dry concrete the other spins on ice
#11
12-10-2008, 09:18 PM
inst... http://www.richmondgear.com/0002pdfs/8221002.pdf
not too hard. i'd never taken a rear end apart before, so i went real slow and careful. the process is fairly easy, and i found by trial and error all the things NOT to do, like putting too much grease on the pieces. i had a little trouble lining up some of the components and took it back apart several times, and called the tech support line. they told me to quit worrying about it and just put it together and drive it... if you take your time and don't get rushed, you can spend a few hours on it. i spent a couple of hours one day and a couple more the next. after doing one, i could do it again in a flash (but that doesn't count).
a couple of things to know about them...
the unit is naturally in a locked condition, so that both wheels are pulling.
the amount of play/slop in the rear end is increased from stock, as the parts are sort of loosely interlocked.
when you go around a turn, the pressures to differentiate cause the little springs to compress, and the unit unlocks.
when you straighten back up, the side pressures reduce, and the little springs push the pieces back into a locked condition.
there are no clicking sounds.
when you turn 90* in wet or slippery conditions, the inner tire will generally spin rather than unlock the unit. that's what is supposed to do - pull.
driving the truck feels different than stock. it has a sort of pushy feeling. you get used to it in a week or so.
every once in while, maybe once a month, the unit will make a loud pop sound when it unlocks and slips a tooth and relocks. powertrax says this is normal. at first it freaks you out, but you eventually get used to it.
if you get on the side of a hill in mud or leaves or snow, and both tires are spinning, you'll side slide down the hill and there's not a damn thing you can do about it. with an open diff, you'd sit in one place and spin one tire.
the noslip and lock-rite are 2 different designs. get the noslip.
the noslip comes in 2 models for 9.25. one replaces an open diff, the other an lsd.
someone else here on the forum got one of these last year and hated it. i think he had a lead foot and was always spinning the inner tire.
these products are designed for stock hp and medium sized tires <= 32-33". they are not strong enough for high hp and very hard code offroading.
i love mine. its a pulling sob. if i get stuck, then i earned it.
squirrels got a detroit tru-trac LSD and like's his. its my understanding that this requires some special tools and skills. someone correct me if i'm wrong.
not too hard. i'd never taken a rear end apart before, so i went real slow and careful. the process is fairly easy, and i found by trial and error all the things NOT to do, like putting too much grease on the pieces. i had a little trouble lining up some of the components and took it back apart several times, and called the tech support line. they told me to quit worrying about it and just put it together and drive it... if you take your time and don't get rushed, you can spend a few hours on it. i spent a couple of hours one day and a couple more the next. after doing one, i could do it again in a flash (but that doesn't count).
a couple of things to know about them...
the unit is naturally in a locked condition, so that both wheels are pulling.
the amount of play/slop in the rear end is increased from stock, as the parts are sort of loosely interlocked.
when you go around a turn, the pressures to differentiate cause the little springs to compress, and the unit unlocks.
when you straighten back up, the side pressures reduce, and the little springs push the pieces back into a locked condition.
there are no clicking sounds.
when you turn 90* in wet or slippery conditions, the inner tire will generally spin rather than unlock the unit. that's what is supposed to do - pull.
driving the truck feels different than stock. it has a sort of pushy feeling. you get used to it in a week or so.
every once in while, maybe once a month, the unit will make a loud pop sound when it unlocks and slips a tooth and relocks. powertrax says this is normal. at first it freaks you out, but you eventually get used to it.
if you get on the side of a hill in mud or leaves or snow, and both tires are spinning, you'll side slide down the hill and there's not a damn thing you can do about it. with an open diff, you'd sit in one place and spin one tire.
the noslip and lock-rite are 2 different designs. get the noslip.
the noslip comes in 2 models for 9.25. one replaces an open diff, the other an lsd.
someone else here on the forum got one of these last year and hated it. i think he had a lead foot and was always spinning the inner tire.
these products are designed for stock hp and medium sized tires <= 32-33". they are not strong enough for high hp and very hard code offroading.
i love mine. its a pulling sob. if i get stuck, then i earned it.
squirrels got a detroit tru-trac LSD and like's his. its my understanding that this requires some special tools and skills. someone correct me if i'm wrong.
Last edited by dhvaughan; 12-10-2008 at 10:22 PM.
#12
12-10-2008, 09:54 PM
Record Breaker
i am accually interested in this aswell, i was going to save up and get the tru-trac becuase i am guessing it is more for the offroader, i mean i only run 31 inch tires, and i plan on going to 33's, but thats it. i do ALOT of offroading, and i think i would do alot more with the truck if i had the LSD in the rear, ( i have pretty much guessed that these trucks already have them in the front with the dana 44's) but then still be able to drive home at the end of the night like normal. what would be my best bet? stick with saving for the tru-trac or will somethin else work?
Last edited by meanwhitemopar; 12-10-2008 at 09:55 PM. Reason: typo
#13
12-10-2008, 10:09 PM
the D44 front dif is 'open' and does not come stock with LSD.
consider the total cost of lsd (parts and labor) vs noslip (parts and DIY).
i think the noslip actually digs better than the LSD and is a better offroader. the LSD uses clutches or gears to try and direct the power away from the spinning wheel. to me thats just something else to go wrong. its simpler just to send the power to both and let them dig. as an example, if you get one rear wheel in the air, an LSD will generally not send the power to the wheel on the ground. a locker will.
a noslip is a medium duty/lunchbox locker that can handle stock hp and tires to 32-33.
for more serious applications, you'd use a full case locker like this.
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...cker/index.htm
detroit locker $700. http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com/sh...ml/page23.html
consider the total cost of lsd (parts and labor) vs noslip (parts and DIY).
i think the noslip actually digs better than the LSD and is a better offroader. the LSD uses clutches or gears to try and direct the power away from the spinning wheel. to me thats just something else to go wrong. its simpler just to send the power to both and let them dig. as an example, if you get one rear wheel in the air, an LSD will generally not send the power to the wheel on the ground. a locker will.
a noslip is a medium duty/lunchbox locker that can handle stock hp and tires to 32-33.
for more serious applications, you'd use a full case locker like this.
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...cker/index.htm
detroit locker $700. http://www.nationaldrivetrain.com/sh...ml/page23.html
Last edited by dhvaughan; 12-10-2008 at 10:50 PM.