a little help needed
so yesterday i go to start my truck and it just cranks and cranks i check to see if i can hear the fuel pump running and it is check the cap and rotor button the button has some burn marks on the foil/spring part and the cam sensor looks not so good and the coil is de-laminating at the bottom so I replace these parts as it should be done anyway and it starts right up runs for 5-10 mins. and stalls like there is something wrong with the timing and it has not re-started yet just cranks????? so I check these items again and the all look good
and now need some help please thank you in advance for any info
stats
1998 1500 5.9L 136,000 on the clock ALL stock
UPDATE:
so now after it sits with the battery disconnected over night it will start and run great for 15 mins. and then it will start to sputter and stall like the timing is off or something the first couple of attempts to restart it catches a little but like the timing is off and then it will just crank and crank
now i am really lost on this one
and now need some help please thank you in advance for any info
stats
1998 1500 5.9L 136,000 on the clock ALL stock
UPDATE:
so now after it sits with the battery disconnected over night it will start and run great for 15 mins. and then it will start to sputter and stall like the timing is off or something the first couple of attempts to restart it catches a little but like the timing is off and then it will just crank and crank
now i am really lost on this one
Last edited by 19ramslt98; Dec 13, 2008 at 11:21 AM. Reason: update
Troubleshooting can drive you nuts at times. I'm no expert but I've worked on my truck a lot. So here's my thoughts on your problem. Although you can hear your fuel pump running, the filter might be getting clogged which could explain why the engine runs for a short period then dies. The pump and filter are a single unit inside the fuel tank and must be replaced at the same time. If you have a bit of patience and a couple hours time it's not too difficult a job.
I'm also wondering if you've checked your spark plugs and plug wires. If they haven't been replaced in a long while that would be the easiest and least expensive place to start the process of elimination.
I'm also wondering if you've checked your spark plugs and plug wires. If they haven't been replaced in a long while that would be the easiest and least expensive place to start the process of elimination.
Thanks for the reply the spark plugs and wires are two years old and have about 10,000 miles on them but i will check to see because you never know and i will put a fuel psi gauge to check to see if it is in spec
With no oil, the truck would still start. The plugs being fouled might inhibit a start, but no oil, to much oil, or the right amount of oil have no effect whether the vehicle will start or not. Obviously it has an effect on your engine life, but it would still start.
If the fuel filter was clogged or a bad pump, I don't think it would wait until 10-15 minutes running before quitting. It wouldn't run well or at all, period, from the first turn of the key.
Sounds like its fine until it reaches normal operating temp. I'm thinking a bad sensor. The computer ignores certain things until its reached operating temperature, and then it looks for inputs from all its sensors (rather than just some). If one of those sensors is faulty, the computer wouldn't be operating properly, and therefore neither would your engine.
As far as the exact sensor, more experienced guys on here can chime in. I don't have enough experience to give you an educated guess as to which one.
If the fuel filter was clogged or a bad pump, I don't think it would wait until 10-15 minutes running before quitting. It wouldn't run well or at all, period, from the first turn of the key.
Sounds like its fine until it reaches normal operating temp. I'm thinking a bad sensor. The computer ignores certain things until its reached operating temperature, and then it looks for inputs from all its sensors (rather than just some). If one of those sensors is faulty, the computer wouldn't be operating properly, and therefore neither would your engine.
As far as the exact sensor, more experienced guys on here can chime in. I don't have enough experience to give you an educated guess as to which one.
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It sounds like an electrical component is heating up and cutting out. Check the electrical output to the fuel pump at the fuel pump relay. Set up a voltmeter on the supply to the pump contact and one lead to ground. Start the engine and make sure you show 12 volts on the meter. Run the engine until it stalls out and see if you still have 12 volts on the feed to the pump. If you do that rules out the relay as the cause. If you don't it is the relay failing.
If you have 12 volts remove the relay and switch the meter to the Ohms scale and read the feed to the pump to ground. There should be a low resistance reading at this time since the pump should be set to operate. If you get a high reading the pump is probably bad.
If you have 12 volts remove the relay and switch the meter to the Ohms scale and read the feed to the pump to ground. There should be a low resistance reading at this time since the pump should be set to operate. If you get a high reading the pump is probably bad.
thanks for the replies it does have oil (i checked that first) looks like it is going to be a sensor of some sort i have a new mopar crank sensor that i have not installed yet ( it is 15 degrees out right now ) the cap rotor button and cam sensor are all mopar as well i was able to get them at employee cost through a friend. if only it had died in front of my garage and not 50 feet away from it it would go quicker trying to figure it out. Thank you all for the info and I will let you know what fixes it



