posted in another area, but, thought i would share my problems here to, if you take time to read. have a 2000 ram 1500, 2 wd, 5.9 liter. about a week ago, my truck acted like my brake were entergised just a tad, for i could feel a slit drag on my truck. i pulled off the road, and some smoke coming from under hood, near front wheel area. i went slow, back to the house, and parked. my shoes were down to nothing, and rotor was scared. took rotors off, and had turned down. took bearing/hub assembly off to check bearings. they looked ok, for what i could see, so, i tried to repack them by hand. bought a new caliper assembly, and shoes, for the rubber dust shield was gone. spent $30 for those blooming nuts that lock the hub on spindle. torqued the nut for that to 185 lbs. i know nothing if the bolts associated with caliper are supposed to be torqued to specs, but i put them tight. when i got everything back, the only things then was nothing on the brakes. i pumped, bleed several (6) times on each wheel, and nothing. someone mentioned is probably that stupid computers that vehicles have now. my ABS would not go off. i disconnected my battery to set a few minutes, and when i hooked it back, there seemed to be brakes, but i still bled them again. at the moment everything seems to tight. i still feel a drag when i am ideling in drive and pet my excelerator. when i mash the brake, the wheels lock up (rear wheels). do not know if drag is coming from front or back. ABS light is off. if you have any suggestions, i would really appreciate them. Jimmy

 

How could you tell your rotors were scared? Did they see a monster? Maybe your driving scared them.

When you change brakes pads, do you remove the cap from the reservoir before pushing the piston of the caliper back into place? That excess fluid has to go somewhere.

 

well.....they were scared because the pads were worn to far, i guess, but they are not scared now. the pads were put in when i put the new caliper in, and the piston came with it already pushed in. what else can i check? i only bled front brakes. do i need to bleed rear also? right now, i am not looking to get more brake, for i seem to have to much, with sensitive response. am going to work with it again tomorrow.

 

vw's screwing with you. scared vs scarred. jack up the front end, engine running, spin the fronts and have an assistant mash the brakes. check that they stop. then release brake pedal. try to spin the wheels. you should hear and feel only very slight resistance. repeat same test on rear. make sure caliper slides are lubed. when bleeding brakes, is the fluid pretty clean or blackish. i think i would thoroughly bleed rear and front to make sure there's not any rust or junk clogging things up. you replaced both capliers right ? if none of that works, then i'm not sure of next move...

 

lol gotta love the good ol sarcastic humor

 

I thought he meant scored. Any way, screwed up.

 

If the dust cover was gone, your pistons are shot. Exactly what happened to my front brakes.

 

i am seeing a lot of post in other area that tell me, i should take the truck to the shop, but am trying desperately to save cost. i did not remove calipers from the wheel. i took the 2 bolts out that holds the piston carrage on, tooh fluid line off. got a new piston carrage, slipped over part holding pads, and put 2 bolts back tight. i just tightened up with socket. i reconnected fluid line with open end wrench, as there was a little pen sticking up on the piece mounting to the piston carrage, and my socket did not have room to fit, being still attached to wheel. what part does the little pen hole in the bolt that i tightened do? does the little pen sticking up serve a perpose? all i know is that the new calipers are on, i bled only front brakes, and my brakes are to tight. any suggestions, for i am going to work with it again today? thanks, Jimmy

 

Dude, you need to get a Haynes manual or download the FSM located in the DIY section. And it would be nice if you could put ALL the info about your truck in your sig. By the sounds of your last post, you might want to take it to a shop, before you kill yourself or some one else,LOL

The piston carriage as you call it IS the caliper, it's the big metal piece with the hose connected and the piston is in. So I don't know what you think the caliper is. There is more to it than just removing and installing it. There is torque specs, grooves and sleeves to clean, etc... which is all in a manual.

 

You should be able to pick up a Hayne's manual at any parts store for about 15 bucks. They're not the "end all" for instructions and information, but they're very, very helpful, and the section on brakes is quite useful. Your thoughts about bleeding out the rear brakes are good, and you should also check to make sure the wheel cylinders are not leaking. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but brake fluid on shoes in drum brakes can make them very grabby. At any rate, at least pull the drums, clean the parts thoroughly, put grease on the contact points for the shoes (not the part that contacts the drum :P) and bleed them until the fluid is clear.

I was having problems with my brakes always pulling to the left. I replaced everything you see in my sig for brakes and none of it had any effect. Finally I replaced the "new" pads that the dealer supposedly put on it. That, plus roughing up the surface of the rotors with steel wool, solved it. It can be the simplest thing at times.

Good luck