oil pan drop
Hey, so my oil pump is ether going bad or the screen is clogged. So I need to drop the pan and replace the pump and clean the screen. But can you remove the pan without rising the motor up? I was reading some sites that said you did and others you dont need to.
Also when I do drop the pan should I use 4 jackstands or can I use 2 on the front. I never used them before so I need to no the safest way.
Thank you!
2000 Dodge ram 1500 v8 360
Also when I do drop the pan should I use 4 jackstands or can I use 2 on the front. I never used them before so I need to no the safest way.
Thank you!
2000 Dodge ram 1500 v8 360
i replaced the oil pump in my 01, and did not have to lift the motor, nor lift the truck. its 4wd and high enough off the ground that there was plenty of room.
here's a nice how-to. he had to drop the y-pipe, but i did not.
the hardest thing i ran into was having to remove the dust cover over the flywheel/flex plate thing, which required removing the starter, which was a big pain, cause the mother f***er was torque to about 120 pounds or more. i had to stack up several extensions to clear the engine mount. 3/8 drive flexed too much. 1/2 drive with a cheater pipe worked to break it loose.
if your rear main is leaking, and you feel like doing it, this is the best time to replace it. its a 2 piece seal that wraps around the crank. you'll have to loosen and then retorque the crankshaft main journals. you'll have to have a decent torque wrench to do it.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/rearmain.php
here's a nice how-to. he had to drop the y-pipe, but i did not.
the hardest thing i ran into was having to remove the dust cover over the flywheel/flex plate thing, which required removing the starter, which was a big pain, cause the mother f***er was torque to about 120 pounds or more. i had to stack up several extensions to clear the engine mount. 3/8 drive flexed too much. 1/2 drive with a cheater pipe worked to break it loose.
if your rear main is leaking, and you feel like doing it, this is the best time to replace it. its a 2 piece seal that wraps around the crank. you'll have to loosen and then retorque the crankshaft main journals. you'll have to have a decent torque wrench to do it.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech/rearmain.php
i removed mine and in order to get the pan out without lifting the engine i had to make sure that the counterweights on the crankshaft in the front of the engine were not hanging down. I placed the timing mark on the harmonic balancer in the 7-8 o'clock position (facing the motor from the bumper) and that moved them up out of the way.
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
here just type in the your area code and they will give you a price
http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...leSelected.htm
http://www.autozone.com/addVehicleId...leSelected.htm
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either of those oil pumps will be fine. it will come with a small gasket for attaching the oil pump to the block. you don't need the kit, that's for rebuilding a pump.
be sure and clean your pickup screen and pipe, and re-use them on your new pump. note the orientation of the pickup on your old one, and set it the same way on the new one. its critical that its pointed down, into the oil, and not sticking sideways or cockeyed.
you probably need a new oil pan gasket. the new ones from felpro are rubber, and re-usable. if yours is fairly new, you can re-use it. if its the original stock one, you should replace it.
be sure and clean your pickup screen and pipe, and re-use them on your new pump. note the orientation of the pickup on your old one, and set it the same way on the new one. its critical that its pointed down, into the oil, and not sticking sideways or cockeyed.
you probably need a new oil pan gasket. the new ones from felpro are rubber, and re-usable. if yours is fairly new, you can re-use it. if its the original stock one, you should replace it.
Last edited by dhvaughan; Dec 26, 2008 at 11:01 PM.



