new to here, which truck to buy? 3 choices
Rookie
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: East Tx
yet another good point.
Record Breaker
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Oregon
I personally think you are going to be best off with #3, I love my 5.2 manual, but the 01 is going to be in the best shape and a factory lift is going to be much better than that 6 inch lift on the 95, and as said before, a 2 inch spacer and an add a leaf you have 4 inches lift, whether you need it or not, really not sure, I like my 2.5 inches of lift on my rig, its seemed to do real nice for me, the only thing to look for on that 01 is cracks in the dash, those 01's seem to have problems with that that the other years dont...
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Joined: Dec 2008
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check kbb private party for values. all those trucks are at the top, or over, what they are worth.
mileage is not too big of a concern. the engines can run 200k+ transmission is your biggest concern. +1 on having a transmission shop test it. even if your have to pay them $50. these trucks are notorious for needing very expensive rebuilds ($1500-2000), and that's often the reason they are for sale.
#2 may or may not have a cross threaded axle nut. if it was cross threaded, i doubt that you could ever get it tight, and the wheel would visible wobble. a basic inspection by wiggling the tire should confirm if there is an immediate problem. worst case is that you need a replacement outer stub shaft. not the end of the world, but a few hundred to pay someone to fix. maybe $100 for a stub shaft, assuming the $200 bearing is ok.
i would prefer the 01. less age. 5.9. better brakes. OBDII. offroad/4.10 gears. i would also much prefer a factory 2" lift over a 6" lift. just my opinion. i'd try real hard to get him down to $6000
mileage is not too big of a concern. the engines can run 200k+ transmission is your biggest concern. +1 on having a transmission shop test it. even if your have to pay them $50. these trucks are notorious for needing very expensive rebuilds ($1500-2000), and that's often the reason they are for sale.
#2 may or may not have a cross threaded axle nut. if it was cross threaded, i doubt that you could ever get it tight, and the wheel would visible wobble. a basic inspection by wiggling the tire should confirm if there is an immediate problem. worst case is that you need a replacement outer stub shaft. not the end of the world, but a few hundred to pay someone to fix. maybe $100 for a stub shaft, assuming the $200 bearing is ok.
i would prefer the 01. less age. 5.9. better brakes. OBDII. offroad/4.10 gears. i would also much prefer a factory 2" lift over a 6" lift. just my opinion. i'd try real hard to get him down to $6000
Im really sold on truck #2. But i think ill rule out truck #1 for the moment. Ill look into checking out both trucks 2 and 3 tomorrow. I really think i can get truck 2 on a good price maybe 4000$ish. I can save alot of money....
Kbb rates truck 2:
Excellent
$4,710
Good
$4,335
Fair
$3,860
More input appreciated! You guys have helped alot so far...
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I personally think you are going to be best off with #3, I love my 5.2 manual, but the 01 is going to be in the best shape and a factory lift is going to be much better than that 6 inch lift on the 95, and as said before, a 2 inch spacer and an add a leaf you have 4 inches lift, whether you need it or not, really not sure, I like my 2.5 inches of lift on my rig, its seemed to do real nice for me, the only thing to look for on that 01 is cracks in the dash, those 01's seem to have problems with that that the other years dont...
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 12,204
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From: Gainesville, Ga.
again just my opinion. aftermarket items like lifts, headers, cams, etc, (which cost a lot), don't add any value to the truck. if anything, they decrease its value. a lot of people are very disappointed to find that out. they will spend $1000, 2000, 5000 or more dollars on a 95 truck, and when they go to sell it, its still a 95 truck and its only worth a standard amount, unless - they find that special buyer that really wants all those mods already done. and frankly - half the fun of all that stuff is putting it on. anyway, $4335 sounds about right.
a manual trans eliminates the biggest potential repair, the auto trans rebuild.
if you like #2, and want a professional inspection - call around to some repair shops, and request a 'buyers inspection'. expect to pay $50-100-200. dealer? maybe, i don't know. make sure they specifically check -
compression test (for blown head gasket, cracked heads, burned valves)
ALL front end parts, including wheel bearings, brakes, axle seals, ball joints, steering box, track bar, etc.
transmission, tcase, 4wd operation.
oil leaks,
rear end
body. any wrecks, repairs, non-stock paint lines, rust, paint condition.
having done all this, it is a '95 truck that's 13 years old, and its likely that it will have a lot of worn out parts. the point of the inspection is to avoid the abnormal lemon, that's about to cost you a big, expensive, and "unexpected" repair.
use the findings to negotiate the right price on the truck.
be prepared to walk away and write off the inspection cost.
common problems that are to be expected are
cracked dash, track bar, leaking front seals, blown plenum gasket. this is normal and things you have to sort of accept.
things to avoid, or at least negotiate in the price are cracked head, low compression, excessive oil leaks, auto trans problems, major wrecks, major rust.
a manual trans eliminates the biggest potential repair, the auto trans rebuild.
if you like #2, and want a professional inspection - call around to some repair shops, and request a 'buyers inspection'. expect to pay $50-100-200. dealer? maybe, i don't know. make sure they specifically check -
compression test (for blown head gasket, cracked heads, burned valves)
ALL front end parts, including wheel bearings, brakes, axle seals, ball joints, steering box, track bar, etc.
transmission, tcase, 4wd operation.
oil leaks,
rear end
body. any wrecks, repairs, non-stock paint lines, rust, paint condition.
having done all this, it is a '95 truck that's 13 years old, and its likely that it will have a lot of worn out parts. the point of the inspection is to avoid the abnormal lemon, that's about to cost you a big, expensive, and "unexpected" repair.
use the findings to negotiate the right price on the truck.
be prepared to walk away and write off the inspection cost.
common problems that are to be expected are
cracked dash, track bar, leaking front seals, blown plenum gasket. this is normal and things you have to sort of accept.
things to avoid, or at least negotiate in the price are cracked head, low compression, excessive oil leaks, auto trans problems, major wrecks, major rust.
Last edited by dhvaughan; Dec 27, 2008 at 10:39 PM.
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Registered User
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again just my opinion. aftermarket items like lifts, headers, cams, etc, (which cost a lot), don't add any value to the truck. if anything, they decrease its value. a lot of people are very disappointed to find that out. they will spend $1000, 2000, 5000 or more dollars on a 95 truck, and when they go to sell it, its still a 95 truck and its only worth a standard amount, unless - they find that special buyer that really wants all those mods already done. and frankly - half the fun of all that stuff is putting it on. anyway, $4335 sounds about right.
But from what it sounds like, i should still get the tranny checked out regardless. It sounds like the standard is more durable than the auto...Ill see if i cant take a look at it and take some pictures of the truck. Underneath inside etc...
Thanks a lot!
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2008
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Looks like no-one likes the truck 
I wouldent mind paying 4,200 for the truck and 500 or a little more in repairs.
But bluebook for the truck 3 shows:
Excellent
$8,380
Good
$7,930
Fair
$7,355
Its far below blue book, i dont know how much i can negotiate.... But we will see. Maybe there is something wrong with the truck...its really cheap...I just gota see!
The car im trying to sell:
Excellent
$6,745
Good
$6,270
Fair
$5,695
but who knows it could just work out.
I wouldent mind paying 4,200 for the truck and 500 or a little more in repairs.
But bluebook for the truck 3 shows:
Excellent
$8,380
Good
$7,930
Fair
$7,355
Its far below blue book, i dont know how much i can negotiate.... But we will see. Maybe there is something wrong with the truck...its really cheap...I just gota see!
The car im trying to sell:
Excellent
$6,745
Good
$6,270
Fair
$5,695
but who knows it could just work out.
