I do not think your problem is related to damage to your headlight harness since the wiring from the foglights should not have been connected to both the high and low beam wiring, but with some of the electrical work done by DIY mechanics anything is possible.
You are probably suffering from a bad ground on the light bulb return side of the headlight. The ground is common to both high and low beams. Run a temporary wire from the ground side of the socket to a good ground point and see if the bulbs get brighter. If they do make the connection permanent.

If they do not get brighter take an ohmmeter reading from the wiring going between the right and left headlight plugs where they attach to the bulbs. You should have a resistance reading of close to zero. The wire taps cut into the existing wire and could have diminished the overall current carrying capability which adds resistance to the wire and cuts down current flow which would cause the lights to be dim. But like I said I think your problem is ground related.

 

I tryed shacking the wires around and nothing happend.

 

It is ok to wire the fogs up on their own. I'm assuming you ran a hot wire direct from your batt to the fogs with the switch in between. At the very least, you need to put an inline fuse of the proper rating as close to the battery as possible. As it stands now, if you get a short, everything between the short and the batt is going to melt down in about 2 seconds.

Ask someone at your fire house to show you how to use a multimeter and check voltages. Start at the passenger side headlight terminals. With your highbeams on, you should have at least 12V or more at each terminal. I suspect you have a voltage drop somewhere in your chewed up headlight harness and that is why both high and low are dim.

 

yea i have an inline fuse behind my seat ill have to put it on this weekend. sounds like a good idea.

 

I think the socket itself may be bad and not getting a good connection. Pull it and look at it with a flashlite or whatever.

 

Checking voltage at the plug is more or less useless. Voltage will be present at the normal level, 12 - 14 volts whether the wire is damaged or not. The only time the voltage will be lower is if there is a partial ground between the source and the test point. ost folks will call this a short, but it is a ground. Assuming you have no ground, you will have full voltage present UNTIL a load is applied. Once the wiring tries to supply current the damaged wiring will cut down current low. Current does the work and the wire has to be able to pass sufficient current to light up your lights. Again, chech the ground portion of the circuit. Shaking the wires won't find anything except a major fault which leave visible signs of discoloration or burning.

 

So are you telling me you can't find a bad ground with a voltage meter?

 

ok so what yr telling me to do is take a volt meter a test each wire and see if any are below 12-14 volts and if so what do i do if they are below.

 

Try APA's suggestion first to rule out a bad ground:

"You are probably suffering from a bad ground on the light bulb return side of the headlight. The ground is common to both high and low beams. Run a temporary wire from the ground side of the socket to a good ground point and see if the bulbs get brighter. If they do make the connection permanent."

If you have a couple of alligator clips and some wire, this would be the easiest thing to do first.

 

A voltmeter will not tell you if you have a good ground, an Ohmmeter will. Connect the Ohmmeter to a good known ground, test the connection to another point that is a good known ground. The reading should be zero or very close to zero. Then take one lead and touch it to the shell of the socket holding the bulb. If you have a properly grounded socket you will repeat the reading of zero or near zero you had when you tested the ground points. If not the ground is bad and you need to correct the problem by attaching another wire from the socket to a good ground point or removing it and cleaning up the original ground. For composite headlight systems there will be a ground contact that plugs into the bulb along with the hot leads but the tests will be the same, from that point in the socket to ground should be zero or near zero.
I hope this explains it better for you.