this looks promising. they have the bigger spicer joints for about $34/ea. also lots of other axle parts including the slingers (seals) at the outer end of the axle tubes
http://www.riversidegear.com/categor...les-and-parts/

 

Im liking that last site slightly better for the ujoints... the spicer name ujoint will be waht I will go for.

Thanks everyone, I will be pulling the axles tomorrow stuffing the tubes with rags and will have a 2wd for a little while.

Thanks for the help everyone, I appreciate it!

 

Or you can try these guys
http://www.dutchmanms.com/4_axles.html

 

Just so you know, Spicer is the joint that comes in these from the factory (IIRC). In my wheeling experience they last a lot longer (even just in driveshafts) than the Napa or Oreilly or (insert favorite parts bin here) brand joints.

You could call around too, there is a place locally for me that stocks spicer joints. They are a truck repair and parts store (as in mostly tractor-trailer) but they carry the joints and do driveline service for light duty rigs also.

On a side note, try lightening your lead foot and wheel with your head a bit more, I used to tear through parts on my old Jeep before I learned this one. The dana44 should pretty reliably hold up to 33's and even 35's with moderate-somewhat heavy wheeling. I wouldnt exactly recommend it for rock crawling, but there are those that do it (usually with some added beef).

And if you start hearing a good clicking noise when youre turning in 4low, its time to look at the joints before they fail again, cuz they're getting close when they start clankin.

 

as a friend of mine says - STAND on it son.
they also take a rollback along as a spare vehicle. lol

 

The price on Dana joints is not bad. I don't know why you'd go with Durakrap for the price of a Dana. I only put Dana's in mine. I've got 188000 miles, 4.56 gears, an Ox up front, 35" Trxus on mine and all there are are rocks out here. You shouldn't be snapping them like that.

 

Well, honestly I never thought I would break a ujoint... I figured they would be plenty strong enough.

What I was doing when this happend was, I was in really deep snow, about 3 feet deep but it was partially frozen and I was floating ontop of it but I was still draging bumper and I could see the entire axle scraping in the snow... I sunk in and I was still moving but only 2 feet at a time so I was going forward to back and so on... constantly turning my tires. One thing that I have learned is its not good to put much load on the 4wd system when turning... I just wouldent of thought that the snow would give that much resistance.
I heard the noise, instantly knew what it was.. got looked and sure enough. stuck it in 2wd and almost got out of where I was stuck but I had to call a friend to jurk it out...

Luckily for me both times ive broken axles was on my own property and very close to my house.

One question to people who do alot of wheeling. I consider myself to do some pretty hardcore wheeling, and half way good at it... I just dont have much experience... In the snow when my tires start to spin in 4wd the truck will start hopping like crazy sometimes, what does everyone do to combat the hop? What I have found to be the best is 4low and just "get past" the hop, as in getting the tires spinning faster but controled and she just crawls through what ever I want... but I hate that hop.

 

Yeah, axle wrap sucks, and our trucks get it bad. The only way to completely get rid of it in the rear is some type of anti-wrap or traction bar. The only problem I see though is it seams the front does it as well (which technically it is not wrapping because it cant with the four link design), but in an up and down motion. I don't know what would fix this other than stiffer shocks.

 

I have the silver version on the bilstein shocks on it now, and am thinking about going the dual shoock route next...

 

If your ball joints are bad they will also contribute to your problem. They keep the front wheels in the proper geometric relationship. If they are bad the wheels will tend to do their own thing and put un-needed strain on your u-joints too. Since you blew a new set of axles don't jerk around doing a schlock job by not replacing them along with the axles and u-joints.