is it possible on these trucks to take the entire crank out of the truck do all main and rod bearings with the motor in the truck? i would look in my haynes but i lost it have to get another...

i know it would be a heck of alot easier to get to it and do it the right way with it pulled but i need to do this in a timely manner...

 

I think, ( I may be wrong) that you have to remove the radiator in order to do any of that type of work with the motor still in the bay...

 

well then either way i would have to remove the radiator if the motor is coming out or if it stays in. no big deal. but i am more worried about the cross member along the bottom of the motor, or does the crank come out the front?

 

Theoretically, I suppose you could do it, but I wouldn't attempt it. A V8 crank weighs a lot and there's very high risk that you will drop it and damage it. Plus, you would still need to remove the transmission to get the flexplat off. Not worth it in my book.

 

Any idea how much the crank weighs? I know it's enough if it falls on your head you won't be much longer for the world lol. Save your melon and pull the motor, or just do one bearing at a time with the motor in the truck.

 

well to pull the motor isnt bad, just the motor mounts, bell housing, torque converter bolts, and the radiator and the hood latch bar thingy, and it would come right out the front. nto to mention all the electical. so yea. i think i will just pull the motor and see what i can do. now can anyone tell me about the oil return holes in the bacl of the heads... how big they are and how to clean them ot if they got clogged because my dad says this was the likely cause fo all my problems

 

All of the oil on the top end drains back to the sump via large drain-back holes in the heads and valley. I've never seen anything that large get plugged up before. Why does he think that's the problem?

 

because i thery the way it was explained.. the oil flows normal when at idle but when i am beating her and she is above 4k she smokes a bit, my dad says the oil is going up faster then it is coming down and causeing me to burn the little bit of oil. and smoke. cause the sec i let up on thw ***** she quits smokin. in turn keeping the crank without oil every now and then and over time making them burn up. like i have right now

 

No you cannot pull the crank with out the engine being removed, it sits on the tranny shaft(not sure what it is called exactly) Thus you would have to pull it forward and then you would run into the counterweights on the crank hitting the block thus unable to pull it out. Pulling the motors a cake walk if you got a cherry picker. I have a 6inch lift so i removed the bumper and radiator took about 5hrs, alota unplugging.

 

if the oil was getting stuck in the heads it wouldnt cause the engine to smoke, unless the valve guides/seals are no good. Usually you test valve seals by driving down a hill with the throttle at 0% and rpms anywhere above idle. the reason this works is because with the throttle plates closed and the revs high, the engine has to find air to fill the space in the combustion chamber, it will find the path of least resistance (POLR), if the seals are bad, the POLR will be through the valve guides, in turn, pulling oil down through, past the valves and burning it.
What does you oil look like when you change it? is it really black?, also check your PCV valve and see if there is alot of crud on it. it sounds like you may have a couple bad piston rings and are getting some blowby which is forcing oil into the cylinders from the bottom when on the intake stroke. do a compression test, if its low, put a couple of drops of oil into each cylinder and test it again, if it tightens up, you got a bad ring.