ok i got everything undone. the entire front section of the motor is undone. i got 5 bell housing bolts out, and four flex plate bolts... is that all of them? cause the gys that works at the shop says that there should be 6 bell housing bolts. and do i nee to take the starter off? i cant tell if it is connected to the motor or the trans...

 

I don't know how many bolts are on the TC, but yes you have to remove the starter or you won't get the inspection plate off to unbolt it.

 

but i thought if i undid the flew plate the tc could stay on... if not oh well. it will be out tonight. i will undo the starter, and inspection cover... alright. now i know whats keeping me in place... thanks

 

The starter is secured to the bell housing . Remove it .

 

yup, got that part. got he starter. and the flex plate is what needs to come undone. did it. and now, the motor is out and awaiting the new crank, new oil pump, new valve stem seals.... we should be good. will give updates and pics later on


and just so everyone knows. i lost my phone on this build... dropped it in the old antifreeze as i pulled it out to take pics... so yea thats the first oops

 

ok motor is out. new valve seals... and i got the timing chain cover off, and all the crank mains undone. still sitting there because i had to leave the shop, but its that far. now just the small time to pull the con rod caps. and out she comes and in comes the new on. oh joy... time for new parts.

and just so everyone knows the oil pump was still good, but the little vally that goes from the pump to the rest of the motor. was cologed, so i cleaned out the pick up scream. and i ill be using the new pump i got. just to make sure she is pumping enough( high volume oil pump)

 

watch out for those high volume pumps, they can sometimes pump too much into the heads and starve the sump, i would stick with an OEM pump as long as your using factory specs on the bearing gaps. especially if your block is prone to clogging the return holes.

 

well i brought that one back and sanse got the oem one. i was thining the same thing. but i looked on the heads. and return holes, unless they are the great big ones on the top ends of the heads. i dont see any. i cleaned the heads pretty good, and did all the valve seams and they were pretty worn out so i should be good.