Adj vs. Non Adj Roller Rockers
Go with the non-adjustable rockers. You don not need custom length pushrods if you are running stock replacement heads and the geometry has not changed. Go with standard Mopar hydraulic roller lifters. Make sure you soak them in oil a few hours before you install them. Do not try to pump them up.
If you want to check anything with a solid lifter, use one when degreeing in your cam.
In the days of the flat tappet hydraulic cams, some makers allowed for adjustability at the rockers and some did not. If you like hot-lashing your valves with hot oil going all over the place, the get adjustable rockers
.
I have an aftermarket cam and run the stock lifters, pushrods, and rockers without any valvetrain noise, problems, or worries.
Call Dave Hughes and verify the above. His people told me straight up that I can run a stock valvetrain (except for springs) with their stage 1 (street) cams.
If you want to check anything with a solid lifter, use one when degreeing in your cam.
In the days of the flat tappet hydraulic cams, some makers allowed for adjustability at the rockers and some did not. If you like hot-lashing your valves with hot oil going all over the place, the get adjustable rockers
.I have an aftermarket cam and run the stock lifters, pushrods, and rockers without any valvetrain noise, problems, or worries.
Call Dave Hughes and verify the above. His people told me straight up that I can run a stock valvetrain (except for springs) with their stage 1 (street) cams.
Aim that's what I ment. I have no idea where to buy just 1 lifter. Comp has instructions on how to measure them and it says you can use a normal one pumped up.
Vman do you have full solids or solid rollers on your stang? When I build my BB I want to put solid rollers in it. I don't want the possibility of losing lifters on that car again.
Rex I just may do that. I hate talking to John. As I mentioned before when I talk to him all he does is bash other peoples stuff. He will half answer my question then bash away. I just wanna make sure everything is right and not gonna screw anything up. You used hughes heads and cam so its a little easier for them to say you'll be fine. They know the ins and outs of their parts.
Why do you say not to pump up the lifters?
I have some money and want to spend it lol. That and I want to have as many parts as possible when the block gets back so I can start putting it back together
Vman do you have full solids or solid rollers on your stang? When I build my BB I want to put solid rollers in it. I don't want the possibility of losing lifters on that car again.
Rex I just may do that. I hate talking to John. As I mentioned before when I talk to him all he does is bash other peoples stuff. He will half answer my question then bash away. I just wanna make sure everything is right and not gonna screw anything up. You used hughes heads and cam so its a little easier for them to say you'll be fine. They know the ins and outs of their parts.
Why do you say not to pump up the lifters?
I have some money and want to spend it lol. That and I want to have as many parts as possible when the block gets back so I can start putting it back together
Because the FSM, Haynes, and Hughes says not to pump them up. It seems there is a risk of pistons slapping valves at start-up if they are pumped up by hand.
I understand. The last time I looked at your cam specs, they were very close to what mine are. Comp or Hughes, it makes no difference in how they are installed if they are relatively the same. Now, if your running some exotic aluminum heads or anything that's going to change valvetrain geometry, then I can see the need for custom pushrods. IMHO, you will hate solid lifters in your daily driver. They require constant adjustment and they will "tick" no matter what. That's why Detroit went to hydraulic cams in the 60's.
GM had cars in the late 40's with hydraulic lifters. Pierce Arrow first used them in the early 30's.
GM had cars in the late 40's with hydraulic lifters. Pierce Arrow first used them in the early 30's.
Last edited by charlie1935; Jan 28, 2009 at 12:13 PM.
I understand. The last time I looked at your cam specs, they were very close to what mine are. Comp or Hughes, it makes no difference in how they are installed if they are relatively the same. Now, if your running some exotic aluminum heads or anything that's going to change valvetrain geometry, then I can see the need for custom pushrods. IMHO, you will hate solid lifters in your daily driver. They require constant adjustment and they will "tick" no matter what. That's why Detroit went to hydraulic cams in the 60's.
GM had cars in the late 40's with hydraulic lifters. Pierce Arrow first used them in the early 30's.
GM had cars in the late 40's with hydraulic lifters. Pierce Arrow first used them in the early 30's.
+1 on the solid lifters
Ok thanks for the explanination on the pre pumping. I didn't know the solids were that much of a pain. So even if the guy shaves the head surface I should be fine? I'll call hughes one if these days to make sure though.
Thanks
Sorry Z it was early. My days don't usually start till about 2 in the afternoon lol
Thanks
Sorry Z it was early. My days don't usually start till about 2 in the afternoon lol
I mean the block head surface not the heads themselves. I was pondering having my neq heads ported but the only place that I know around here would be the guy that has my block and it would be another month or 2 to get my **** lol







