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going through ball joints like toilet paper

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  #11  
Old 03-13-2009, 03:15 PM
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Hey, I just saw an ad in Off Road magazine for Dynatrac's new Pro-Steer ball joints. The ad says that they are made of high-strength billet steel bodies, Extra strength chromoly steel and heat treated seams; leak proof seals; heat treated precision-ground stainless steel ball; and teflon-coated internal wear points. They can also be re-built w/o any special equipment. Sounds and in the pic, looks like a pretty stout ball joint. but the bad thing is that they areonly made for 1994-present 3/4 and 1 ton Rams with a Dana 60. I couldn't find the joints on Dynatrac's website, so here is their phone #: (714)-596-4461.
 
  #12  
Old 03-13-2009, 05:45 PM
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The hub bearing assemblies are more prone to go bad than the ball joints. Just because the wheel moves doesn't mean it's the bj. It could be the hub bearing. And maybe I missed it scanning over the thread, but do you have over size tires and/or aftermarket wheels?
 
  #13  
Old 03-13-2009, 07:15 PM
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GIBBO let me ask you this. Do you know how to check for the bad ball joints? A bad trac bar and bad wheel bearings. I am hoping you do and i also went thru the same thing in pa inspection but I carry a inspection licence up there. If you dont it is real simple
1 jack up front one side at a time put a bar under the tire and lift very lightly if you feel play on the up and down it is your ball joints.

2 while jacked up grab hold of the top and bottom of tire and pull back and forth each hand goes the opposite of each other very lightly and see if you can feel play if you do then it is the wheel bearing.

3 grab tire by the side's and go back and forth with each hand going opposite of each other most likely the tie-rod.

4 do both side's and then with the truck on the ground have start it up and have someone steer the whell back and forth while you are looking at the trac-bar see if that is loose.

I had also found that if you get the rancho dual steering stabilizer shocks plus a new factory one ( that would make 3 steering stabalizer shocks ) your wheel bearings will last much longer than just having the factory one on.
 
  #14  
Old 03-13-2009, 07:19 PM
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Excellent instructions ... clear, simple and comprehensive. Well done.
 
  #15  
Old 03-13-2009, 09:44 PM
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Well I know how to check the hub, at least for my 2wd. Just lift up the control arm (the side that is making harsh noises) and see if you can wiggle the wheel back and forth, there shouldnt be any slack, but when I checked mine, I had 2-3 inches of wiggilin goin on.
I wonder if I need to do my ball joints though. Any estimate of milage?
 
  #16  
Old 03-14-2009, 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by TMS Bill
Hahaha ... we gonna start this up again? The manufacturers are silent on this issue. They say that 4wd should be used on sand, dirt and snow (loose surfaces) but NEVER on dry pavement.

Ok ... but what about wet pavement?
"What?"
How about WET pavement?
"Pardon?"
Can you ... awww ... forget it!

They do say that 4wd may be engaged at speeds up to 50mph ... on DIRT?? Are there a lot of people (besides Robby Gordon) that tool along like that on dirt?

When wet ... in 4hi ... it rides like it's on rails.
you are one of those guys,arent you. holy crap. it must be in the water in texas.lol
 
  #17  
Old 03-14-2009, 01:42 AM
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I do not use 4x4 unless I'm in the ditch pulling someone out (heavy mud or lots of snow) or on ice (doesn't help with the stopping, but sure helps with the take off).

From what research I've done on the subject, I believe, however, that if there is a lot of rain (say over an inch or so), engaging 4x4 shouldn't be bad on the drivetrain. I wouldn't do it myself, but there is enough water to guarantee adequate slipping for one or two of the tires, so 4x4 should be OK.

However, if you engage 4x4 when there is any water on the road whatsoever (under an inch), you're an idiot. You're causing excess wear to your truck and will be paying for it later (or the next owner will be).

I feel bad if I'm hurting someone's feelings with that last statement, but its the truth.
 
  #18  
Old 03-14-2009, 01:49 AM
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I must have the stoutest Dodge on the planet. 11 years and 100K miles ... original drivetrain ... minimal maintenance ... daily (HARD) driver. I have no intention of selling it. Oh ... and it was made in Mexico.
 
  #19  
Old 03-14-2009, 06:12 AM
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purpldodge, thanks for the info. If I have to do them i will definitely look into those.

zman, hub bearing on that side has been replaced already but I will check it again.

2damnyankee, I do how to check them and the time I did that side they were bad, not to mention they were not going to pass me unless I had them changed. steering stabilizer sounds like a good idea but i am not going through the bearings like I am the ball joints. the truck has 117000 miles and have only had the bearings on the passenger side done once.

This is basically a stock truck with stock wheels and tires. Its a work truck, plowing, hauling a boat, snowmobile trailer, crap in the back all time. I am one of those guys that uses the truck, not making it look pretty.

My 2 cents on the 4 wheel drive. Use it when you have too. I use mine to plow, when I get stuck, when someone else gets stuck, or when i think I might avoid getting stuck. If you fell like you are not hurting your truck when it is is 4hi in the rain and it makes you feel comfortable than that is all that matters. If it does cause wear than you know it and are prepared to pay to have it fixed (or fix it yourself).

Thanks again guys or all the info / advise.
 
  #20  
Old 03-14-2009, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by TMS Bill
I must have the stoutest Dodge on the planet. 11 years and 100K miles ... original drivetrain ... minimal maintenance ... daily (HARD) driver. I have no intention of selling it. Oh ... and it was made in Mexico.
Same for the most part Not that im proud of saying mine was made in Mexico though. lol
 


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