I was having no issue with my oil pressure until I went to a dealership to install a new t-stat (was out of town with no tools). After about 20 minutes of driving my oil pressure guage flickered and eventually sat at zero. When I shut the truck down and start it, it shows oil pressure but then shortly drops again to zero after a short drive.

I can't really see the dealership causing this problem as the t-stat and oil pressure sender are at opposite ends of the motor. The oil level is good and I changed it about 100 miles ago. One other thing is there is a coolant leak (that's another issue).

Does anyone think it may be a faulty sensor, or should I go deeper into the motor?

Cheers!

 

it could be a faulty sensor. its kinda suspicious that the truck worked fine until you took it to a stealership and then magically your oil pressure gauge gets fuked up.

 

Get a machaly one "sorry for spelling" hook it up and drive it around if i drop then you pro have a spin bearing or something happen to me with only 80,000 miles. But if i dose not i look over all the eletic contion and then i would replace the sen

 

In case nobody got that ... dodgeboy7 said "Get a mechanical one". He's right, hook up a mechanical gauge directly to the port and keep an eye on it.

 

i assign bill to the task of following up all of dodgeboy7's post with a translation. he's really good at it

alright here's a question. does anybody know of a manifold or splitter kit that would screw into the engine port, and provide 2 ports for oil pressure sending units. i'd screw the stock one into one of the ports to feed the pcm and stock gauge. then screw in a universal one for a plain old mechanical or digital gauge.

 

Its a tapered thread, correct? Not sure what the thread spec is but surely if we knew that we could make our own. What do you guys with a mechanical aftermarket gauge in the cab do, just deal with the zero pressure on the console and a low oil light?

 

I'd tap the manifold with a short (1'-2') length of hose connecting to a tee mounted to ... say, the firewall.

 

typical sending unit threads are 1/8-27 NPT
on this sending unit http://store.summitracing.com/partde...rt=CYB-SENSS2E
for this gauge http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
or this. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

i wonder if the hose would swell any and give a false reading. i suppose it might for a moment, but it could only swell so much, then it has to stabilize or burst. so its probably an ok approach. but you still need a 'T' on the block unless there is a second oil pressure port. it would have to be on the block...

 

Like this ... no swell.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
Why would the tee have to be mounted to the block?

 

well, we're talking oil pressure here, right. the stock oil pressure sending unit in on the top of the block at the rear of the engine. this port is directly into the oil passage, directly over the oil pump. i'd think you would mount a T at this location. then on one side of the T you'd screw in the stock sending unit. it would have to be very close to the original location, so the stock electrical connector would fit. then on the other side of the T you'd mount the 2nd sending unit. from that sending unit you'd run a wire to the gauge. any hose seems like unnecessary parts. don't most gauges operate off a sending unit, as opposed to a direct flow of liquid directly to the gauge.

back to your question. why on the block ?
i think the top of the block is the only place you can get accurate oil pressure. (maybe also over at the oil filter.)
and staying close to the stock elec connector.