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Weak A$$ Spark (Getting Expensive)

Old Mar 24, 2009 | 11:33 PM
  #11  
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Yes, cold means not very hot on the spark. I wouldn't clean the sensors, just the Throttle body itself. Unscrew the sensors and give it a healthy bath in carb/choke cleaner.

Here's a DIY on cleaning the TB:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ttle-body.html
 
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Old Mar 24, 2009 | 11:55 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by aim4squirrels
The cam sensor is the pick up sensor, it's the flat plate that sits between the disty and the cap. DON'T take the disty off or you'll probably have to take it to the dealership to have the sync set. You can't tune these engines by twisting the Disty like in the old days.

Take the TB off and give it a good cleaning, especially where the IAC port is on the back.

If I recall correctly, the ignition system on these trucks are the coldest of the big three. Some of the guys that have really souped up these trucks recommend that you upgrade the ignition system, others say it doesn't matter.
Hey Aim how goes it? Yeah I went to the Accel coil and you're right this is a cold engine. MAP is correct my bad. I would reccomend pulling the TB and cleaning it real good Also open the butterfly blades on the TB and look down in there if you see oil pull it clean it and repalce the gaskets and seal it good there's a typw of after market plate some of the members are using to replace the stock ones. Like Aim said this shouldn't cause a weak spark though. That's electrical in nature.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 12:33 AM
  #13  
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thanks guys, I now have tomorrows work set (cleaning).
Hey I just found a service manual for 01 dodge - a xmas gift from Steveo360Ram (sp?) Steve if your listening thanks man....

The ignition section in the manual explains a lot, i still cant guess the rest but getting closer. here an excerpt:
OPERATION - V-6/V-8
The ignition system is controlled by the Powertrain
Control Module (PCM) on all engines.
The ignition system consists of:
² Spark Plugs (Replaced)
² Ignition Coil (Replaced)
² Secondary Ignition Cables (Replaced)
² Distributor (contains rotor and camshaft position
sensor) (Replaced)
² Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
² Also to be considered part of the ignition system
are certain inputs from the Crankshaft Position,
Camshaft Position, Throttle Position and MAP Sensors


After cleaning TB, Looks like I need to validate the Crank sensor, MAP and TPS.

I also read that the PCM controls the ground ckt to the coil, so I thinking if he (PCM) doesnt get good info from above sensors spark will be effected.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 12:44 AM
  #14  
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just went thru the TB cleaning link - good stuff

thanks again
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 12:48 AM
  #15  
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make that "Steve05Ram360"
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 09:25 PM
  #16  
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Removed & cleaned TB, didnt improve things much, plenum looked ok no oil. decided to clear computer by removing battery cable. reconnected and started, running much better, will idle now but wont go over 1500 rpm. Put fuel pressure gauge back on holds 42 psi while running. when I open TB engine starts to cut out, sounds like no fuel, maybe injectors are clogged. Pulled #4 injector while at idle no difference, listened to injectors thru a piece of vacuum line, clicking & sounded like working. have no codes now, and not setting any new ones (did set # 4 fuel injector failure when unpluged). Any ideas on further injector checks?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 09:43 PM
  #17  
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How I found out my injectors where bad is pulled each plug wire as the engine was runing. If the engine starts to idle
Rough than you know that injector is getting fuel if it does not its not getting fuel
I also had welders gloves on so I did not get shocked
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 10:05 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by rsgerhold
Removed & cleaned TB, didnt improve things much, plenum looked ok no oil. decided to clear computer by removing battery cable. reconnected and started, running much better, will idle now but wont go over 1500 rpm. Put fuel pressure gauge back on holds 42 psi while running. when I open TB engine starts to cut out, sounds like no fuel, maybe injectors are clogged. Pulled #4 injector while at idle no difference, listened to injectors thru a piece of vacuum line, clicking & sounded like working. have no codes now, and not setting any new ones (did set # 4 fuel injector failure when unpluged). Any ideas on further injector checks?
I recently cleaned all of my fuel injectors and fuel rail. Get yourself a 9v battery and to peices of wires. connect each wire to each side of the 9v. after you have removed the injectores take each one and connect the wires to the injectors where the pigtail would normally plug in. you should hear a clicking as the pintle goes up and "opens" the injector. It would be at this point where i sprayed some carb and choke cleaner in and then removed the wires to "close" the injector. I did each one and then set them aside while i commensed to flooding the fuel rail with the same stuff. after about 10 minutes (time is really NOT of the essence) i reattached the wires and "opened" the injector and then blew air in the opposite direction to remove any particles that might be caught in the tiny screens. be careful because fuel that was already inside the injector and the carb and choke cleaner while spray out. replace all "O" rings and lube then prior to reinstalling then both in the fuel rail and intake. make sure all connections are reattached and then "prime" the system by turning the key on/off to cycle the fuel pump. this may take a few tries but it will eventually start.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 10:30 PM
  #19  
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thanks guys, I like the cleaning procedure with the 9v battery. Looks like I got another project tomorrow.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2009 | 11:02 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by rsgerhold
thanks guys, I like the cleaning procedure with the 9v battery. Looks like I got another project tomorrow.
have fun and also as a side note i ran alot of seafoam through my fuel system at every fill up for about 3 fillups in a row before i backed down.
 
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