electric fan
Mark 8 fan set-up, ( '96-'97),..
It move's 52 to 5600 CFM. (High-Low).
Don't know of any Elec-fan that moves that
much air. Got mine at the bone yard for 15 bucks.
Use it on my blown mustang making 16 lbs of boost.
Can run on any hot day with the air on and NEVER get the motor hot.
It move's 52 to 5600 CFM. (High-Low).
Don't know of any Elec-fan that moves that
much air. Got mine at the bone yard for 15 bucks.
Use it on my blown mustang making 16 lbs of boost.
Can run on any hot day with the air on and NEVER get the motor hot.
Hey, Im looking to do this when I get back up north. Got one more winter to get thru in Fairbanks, AK. Did anybody notice a mpg increase? I can see maybe 1to2 mpg and maybe a slightly quicker throttle response.....but what have you guys noticed?
The CFM rating came of a Mustang site I also belong to,.
There was a guy that worked at B-Cool and tested a crap- load
of fans for the guys there.
Also,.. (I think) the '94 thru '95 mark 8 fans only flowed a max of 4500 cfm.
I use to have the whole chart saved that showed all the true flow ratings for
most of the aftermarket fans but since I changed over to a Mac from a PC,
I had a hard time downloading everything over and lost about a third of my
files... The chart was one of those. Sorry.
There was a guy that worked at B-Cool and tested a crap- load
of fans for the guys there.
Also,.. (I think) the '94 thru '95 mark 8 fans only flowed a max of 4500 cfm.
I use to have the whole chart saved that showed all the true flow ratings for
most of the aftermarket fans but since I changed over to a Mac from a PC,
I had a hard time downloading everything over and lost about a third of my
files... The chart was one of those. Sorry.
You will also have to do a little fab-work on the Mark-8 fan.
1st. Get the male portion of the plug with at least 6" of lead
wire from the boneyard. (It just makes it easier to wire it up instead of using spade connectors).
The mounting ears are offset and need to be cut off. (A Dremmel tool works best).
I've seen a LOT of ways to mount the fan so, it's really up to you which way you
think is best. I drilled 4 holes in the shroud & placed rubber - grommets in the four corners then,
bought the mounting-kit that has 4 giant-like Zip-ties that Summit or Jegs sells that
push thru the rad fins to secure the fan. Had no problems with it that way, and the mounting-kit is cheap. Also, a side note; If your gonna use the Temp-Probe to kick
your fan on & off, be sure the probe is mounted LOW thru the fins on the rad!
If for any reason your water level should drop below the probe level, that fan will never kick on! I know, I lost a head-gasket on my mustang cause I mounted it twards the top instead of down low. I had a slight water leak and, when the water got below the probe, it stopped working. I wasn't watching my gauges and lost a head-gasket that way.
1st. Get the male portion of the plug with at least 6" of lead
wire from the boneyard. (It just makes it easier to wire it up instead of using spade connectors).
The mounting ears are offset and need to be cut off. (A Dremmel tool works best).
I've seen a LOT of ways to mount the fan so, it's really up to you which way you
think is best. I drilled 4 holes in the shroud & placed rubber - grommets in the four corners then,
bought the mounting-kit that has 4 giant-like Zip-ties that Summit or Jegs sells that
push thru the rad fins to secure the fan. Had no problems with it that way, and the mounting-kit is cheap. Also, a side note; If your gonna use the Temp-Probe to kick
your fan on & off, be sure the probe is mounted LOW thru the fins on the rad!
If for any reason your water level should drop below the probe level, that fan will never kick on! I know, I lost a head-gasket on my mustang cause I mounted it twards the top instead of down low. I had a slight water leak and, when the water got below the probe, it stopped working. I wasn't watching my gauges and lost a head-gasket that way.



