Installed new headers now something gone wrong
Haha, im sure you will get the bug again.
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Ok, Let me clear some things up real quick. I've been a long time member of this board. Although I havn't posted much lately. I've read everything there was to read about the headers. I knew what I was getting into when I installed the headers. I knew all of the disadvanteges and advantages. This isn't my first time around the block. I had bought my headers back before dodgeram 360 got his. I didn't really want anyone to know that I had installed the headers when I posted about the issue that I am having because I knew everyone would jump to the headers as the problem. This little loss of power is not in the scope of what others have experienced. I only talked about the headers so that there was an explantion as to what had been changed about the truck. It's not a loss in low end torque and I actually gained quite a bit of power from installing them. Although it didn't hurt that I cut off three cats.
Anyways to the point. This problem is a stall. The idle is really bad and the engine floods. (I've already changed the IAC) Once the engine is flooded it will still run but when I push the gas about 3/4 of the way down the most the motor will put out is rolling forward at a crawl. If I push past 3/4 of the pedal down the engine will wake up and rev really high and go. I assume this is because once I've open the throttle that far it's finally enough to dry out the spark plugs. I've never caught the problem full on while I've had the scanner connected. I have got minor flare ups while driving and like I said the map seemed to be ginving wierd numbers. They read a low vaccum. So that leads me to think vaccum leak or map sensor. I replaced the map sensor today and I'm getting a differnt range of numbers. It's hard to say if this fixed the problem since the problem is not consitent. It typically happens when the wife is driving. As far as a vaccum leak I pulled the line off the brake booster and it's seems like it has plenty of vaccum.
As far as the bolts go. I knew that I had to retorque them. I installed them about four weeks ago. The truck has been driven maybe a hundred miles. I knew it was getting close to time to tighten them I just hadn't done them yet. So when steve asked about them I was saying they hadn't been done and that I needed to do them. I wasn't saying that I didn't know that they had to be. So to the guy who thought that I was a retard (I can't remeber his name)........... I don't really want to say anything because I don't want to start a pissing match. I'm sure you meant well but, next time try not to be such a butthead it's not very nice.
Thanks for everyones help if anyone thinks I'm way off on the map sensor or a vaccuam leak please let me know I'm open to anything. Right now the map and vaccuam are the best that I can come up with.
Anyways to the point. This problem is a stall. The idle is really bad and the engine floods. (I've already changed the IAC) Once the engine is flooded it will still run but when I push the gas about 3/4 of the way down the most the motor will put out is rolling forward at a crawl. If I push past 3/4 of the pedal down the engine will wake up and rev really high and go. I assume this is because once I've open the throttle that far it's finally enough to dry out the spark plugs. I've never caught the problem full on while I've had the scanner connected. I have got minor flare ups while driving and like I said the map seemed to be ginving wierd numbers. They read a low vaccum. So that leads me to think vaccum leak or map sensor. I replaced the map sensor today and I'm getting a differnt range of numbers. It's hard to say if this fixed the problem since the problem is not consitent. It typically happens when the wife is driving. As far as a vaccum leak I pulled the line off the brake booster and it's seems like it has plenty of vaccum.
As far as the bolts go. I knew that I had to retorque them. I installed them about four weeks ago. The truck has been driven maybe a hundred miles. I knew it was getting close to time to tighten them I just hadn't done them yet. So when steve asked about them I was saying they hadn't been done and that I needed to do them. I wasn't saying that I didn't know that they had to be. So to the guy who thought that I was a retard (I can't remeber his name)........... I don't really want to say anything because I don't want to start a pissing match. I'm sure you meant well but, next time try not to be such a butthead it's not very nice.
Thanks for everyones help if anyone thinks I'm way off on the map sensor or a vaccuam leak please let me know I'm open to anything. Right now the map and vaccuam are the best that I can come up with.
And thats exactly it.... most of those who put LT's on their stock engines arn't getting tunes. Out of curiosity... OP, are you planning on dropping $600 (or w/e) on the SCT tune now, then the a/f gauge (around 300) + adding the bung (varies), and then the pinging issues the sct guys seem to have within the next month to get your truck running right? Sheesh.. talk about the fine print
haha, ill stick with my shorty's and enjoy my extra hill power at a fraction of the hassel and cost. I found mine in the classifieds - $150 for brand new ceramic coated pacesetter's, stage 8 locking header bolts, and free shipping to my door. Can't beat it.
haha, ill stick with my shorty's and enjoy my extra hill power at a fraction of the hassel and cost. I found mine in the classifieds - $150 for brand new ceramic coated pacesetter's, stage 8 locking header bolts, and free shipping to my door. Can't beat it.No I won't be getting an SCT tune anytime soon or ever for that fact. I hardly think that LT's are worth a reprogram. I do have a hypertech right now but, it's getting close to time to get rid of it. The LT actually added quite a bit of power especially at 2500 -4000. I didn't loose any noticable low end. LT's with 3" exhast is right on the edge of being to big for this motor but, it's still with in range. My next mod in the very near future will be ported and polished heads so that they breathe better wich will compliment the LT's very nicley. After that it will be 1.7 rr and then a strocker kit. When I build the stroker (if I ever actually get that far) I'll use a squirt instead of the stock PCM.
Ok, heres an update maybe someone can help. New map, new TPS, new IAC, new coolant sensor(shot in the dark), and the headers torqued down. Nothings changed. I couldn't imagine it being the fuel regulator. It really seems like it's getting to much gas. I'm going to put soap on the intake and look for leaks. Does anyone else have any suggestions? It only bogs down after letting the truck sit from driving around. Also the bog down is enough to shut the motor off at times. If you push the gas pedal down 3/4 of the way it will bog down enough to kill the motor. I've checked the TPS with a scanner and it's reading fine.
I'm sure that it is to I just wish I could figure out what it is or what to look at. Does anyone else have a scanner that will give them live data from the sensors that could tell me what percentage the throttle is open when at an idle. mine goes from 23%(idle) to 76% (WOT). My jetta goes from 0 to 100. It might be just different ways the computer looks at things between the two differnt vehicles. Also I read the tps with a volt meter and it's reading fine. I dunno it's a head scratcher.
Ok, heres an update maybe someone can help. New map, new TPS, new IAC, new coolant sensor(shot in the dark), and the headers torqued down. Nothings changed. I couldn't imagine it being the fuel regulator. It really seems like it's getting to much gas. I'm going to put soap on the intake and look for leaks. Does anyone else have any suggestions? It only bogs down after letting the truck sit from driving around. Also the bog down is enough to shut the motor off at times. If you push the gas pedal down 3/4 of the way it will bog down enough to kill the motor. I've checked the TPS with a scanner and it's reading fine.
Did you replace the Front O2 sensor?
If not, do it and report back.
I said that in post 4, but he said he used a universal one and hooked up the wires. I suggested the casper o2 extender since he said length is a problem, and a non universal o2 and have yet to hear if the op tried it.
I have replace the front O2 sensors with universal ones. I understand that the universal O2 sensors are not ideal however I'm a little hesitante to order the extender and buy new O2 sensors. There are two O2 sensors on a 2001 truck with Cali emisions and neither one are actually from an 01 truck. The come from an 2002 and cost almost $170 each. Its a bit much. I've also monitored them with a scanner and they read good. They never go over a volt.



