cruise control troubles, already did everything i found on DF
Hey guys,
My CC won't work... I did the DIY for cleaning the CC buttons and checked the vacuum line that goes to the actuator and everything seems fine. The CC light works when i put it on but that's it.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bigster
My CC won't work... I did the DIY for cleaning the CC buttons and checked the vacuum line that goes to the actuator and everything seems fine. The CC light works when i put it on but that's it.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Bigster
everything is hooked up as it should, checked it several times.
I don't have the manual of my truck, is there some special way to engage the CC? I tried it at speeds above 30 mph but no cruise...
I don't have the manual of my truck, is there some special way to engage the CC? I tried it at speeds above 30 mph but no cruise...
I believe you must be going over 35mph
Also, you must press the ON button, then the SET button and for some reason, mine doesn't like to engage unless I'm accelerating or maintaining speed. Probably a safety thing.
Also, you must press the ON button, then the SET button and for some reason, mine doesn't like to engage unless I'm accelerating or maintaining speed. Probably a safety thing.
Check your brake light switch. If it's bad or engaged, it will turn the CC off. Look at you haynes manual on how to check it. If anything, you could always buy a new one. They're only $20 or so. download the Service manual off this site to help you. Read this thread. It's short. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-problems.html
Last edited by J415; Apr 10, 2009 at 07:54 PM.
mine only engages after im doing about 40 - 50ish in that range, and like squirrels said , u have to press on then set , and it really only works when on the gas. Geez think about it , ur stareing at ur wheel to press on, then set , then make sure that green led is on , What a good way to get into a accedent
Trending Topics
I have a 1999 Ram 1500 club cab.
My cruise control light would be on but when I set it the speed would not hold.
The problem was a hole in a plastic tube under the battery. The hole in the plastic tube connects to what appears to be a vaccum canister that is located underneath the battery.
I put electrical tape over the hole and it fixed my cruise control....the problem came back because the suction pulled the electrical tape in the tube and blocked the vaccum. I wound up cutting out the portion of the tube with a hole and spliced drip irrigation tubing over the existing plastic tube then used electrical tape to secure each end of the splice. My cruise control works great now.
My cruise control light would be on but when I set it the speed would not hold.
The problem was a hole in a plastic tube under the battery. The hole in the plastic tube connects to what appears to be a vaccum canister that is located underneath the battery.
I put electrical tape over the hole and it fixed my cruise control....the problem came back because the suction pulled the electrical tape in the tube and blocked the vaccum. I wound up cutting out the portion of the tube with a hole and spliced drip irrigation tubing over the existing plastic tube then used electrical tape to secure each end of the splice. My cruise control works great now.
Sending you information from the 2001 RAM shop manual for testing for a vaccum leak. Hope this helps.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VACUUM SUPPLY
On gasoline powered engines: actual engine vacuum,
a vacuum reservoir, a one-way check valve and
vacuum lines are used to supply vacuum to the speed
control servo.
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose at speed control servo
and install a vacuum gauge into the disconnected hose.
(2) Start engine and observe gauge at idle. Vacuum
gauge should read at least ten inches of mercury
(3) If vacuum is less than ten inches of mercury,
determine source of leak. Check vacuum line to
engine for leaks. Also check actual engine intake
manifold vacuum. If manifold vacuum does not meet
this requirement, check for poor engine performance
and repair as necessary.
(4) If vacuum line to engine is not leaking, check
for leak at vacuum reservoir. To locate and gain
access to reservoir, refer to Vacuum Reservoir Removal/
Installation in this group. Disconnect vacuum line
at reservoir and connect a hand-operated vacuum
pump to reservoir fitting. Apply vacuum. Reservoir
vacuum should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace reservoir.
(5) Verify operation of one-way check valve and
check it for leaks.
(a) Locate one-way check valve. The valve is
located in vacuum line between vacuum reservoir
and engine vacuum source. Disconnect vacuum
hoses (lines) at each end of valve.
(b) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
reservoir end of check valve. Apply vacuum. Vacuum
should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace one-way check valve.
(c) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
vacuum source end of check valve. Apply vacuum.
Vacuum should flow through valve. If vacuum is
not flowing, replace one-way check valve. Seal the
fitting at opposite end of valve with a finger and
apply vacuum. If vacuum will not hold, diaphragm
within check valve has ruptured. Replace valve.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - VACUUM SUPPLY
On gasoline powered engines: actual engine vacuum,
a vacuum reservoir, a one-way check valve and
vacuum lines are used to supply vacuum to the speed
control servo.
(1) Disconnect vacuum hose at speed control servo
and install a vacuum gauge into the disconnected hose.
(2) Start engine and observe gauge at idle. Vacuum
gauge should read at least ten inches of mercury
(3) If vacuum is less than ten inches of mercury,
determine source of leak. Check vacuum line to
engine for leaks. Also check actual engine intake
manifold vacuum. If manifold vacuum does not meet
this requirement, check for poor engine performance
and repair as necessary.
(4) If vacuum line to engine is not leaking, check
for leak at vacuum reservoir. To locate and gain
access to reservoir, refer to Vacuum Reservoir Removal/
Installation in this group. Disconnect vacuum line
at reservoir and connect a hand-operated vacuum
pump to reservoir fitting. Apply vacuum. Reservoir
vacuum should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace reservoir.
(5) Verify operation of one-way check valve and
check it for leaks.
(a) Locate one-way check valve. The valve is
located in vacuum line between vacuum reservoir
and engine vacuum source. Disconnect vacuum
hoses (lines) at each end of valve.
(b) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
reservoir end of check valve. Apply vacuum. Vacuum
should not bleed off. If vacuum is being lost,
replace one-way check valve.
(c) Connect a hand-operated vacuum pump to
vacuum source end of check valve. Apply vacuum.
Vacuum should flow through valve. If vacuum is
not flowing, replace one-way check valve. Seal the
fitting at opposite end of valve with a finger and
apply vacuum. If vacuum will not hold, diaphragm
within check valve has ruptured. Replace valve.







