Hey,

Any of you guys local to VA? I live in Culpeper and bought a 2500, but it needs some tweeking. Its got about an inch or so play in the wheel and I know it needs brakes....possible rear. When I shift from drive to reverse its bangin pretty decent. I checked the driveshaft and its solid, so u-joints are good.

If anyone is local to me that owns/works on dodges, I would much perfer to put money in your pocket then to pay the local shops that charge arms and legs and dont do what needs to be done.

Thanks,

John 540-718-7098 if anyone sees this and wants to call.

 

What year is your truck? I have a 98 2500 4x4. I recently did the rear brakes on mine. Chances are you will want to also repack the bearing and replace the seals at the same time. I live in Fairfax. If you need any help let me know.

 

Sungod,

I have NO tools at my place and honestly....I'm not that much mechanically enclined to be honest. I was looking for someone to do the work for me as I don't have tools to start with. If I did, I would go out and learn/teach myself, lol.

I talked to a mechanic at work today and he thinks he has time to do some of the work I need done. It's just a bunch of little things like I listed before...brakes, tune up, and possible fixing/rebuilding the rear (i know the rear job isnt "simple).

Hopefully will get this done in a week or so. If I need ya I'll repost on here, or try to pm you.

Thanks for responding, oh hey...........if you have bigger tires then stock on ur truck, would you forward me the pics? I'm hunting for pics of STOCK sitting 2500's with 33's. Trying to get an idea of the look.....thanks

arsjohn81@yahoo.com

john

 

Here is a picture of min on 33s. I found the wheels and tires on Craigslist for $500 already mounted and balanced. The BFG MTs were nearly new. They rub a little bit at full turn, but nothing horrible. If I had a wheel with less offset, they wouldn't rub at all.

 

That is the stance I was hoping it had stock. Damn good lookin truck.

My dood called yesterday and complete brakes installed will cost me $450, aint bad cuz the shop up the street told me $790

I found a used set in woodbridge for $350..hopefully I'll get to check them out today if the rain cancels work again. They are just the chrome plated/dipped wagon wheels with some generic 33 mudders. But I can't beat that price esp sense the "used" tire guy in town wants $400 for his tires alone.

Do you know anything about rear ends SUN? Its clunking when going into gear, mostly from drive into reverse. The shaft is tight but I did the neutral check and it rotates about 1.5 inches . Hopefully its just the bearings but he's going to crack the case today and see whats going on in there. Thats prolly going to be my biggest expense right now, and hoping its just the bearings.

Thanx for that pic again.....nice truck.

John

 

Its clunking when going into gear, mostly from drive into reverse.

My truck did that shortly after i bought it, i figured it was the U joints in the rear drive shaft... fixed them but still "clunks".
I was told it was a "Chrysler Clunk" lol

 

yea, its the chrysler clunk...i've got it too...really the only thing you can do with it is maybe put a shift kit in it and just keep the fluid level proper and changed at normal intervals.
i live in fredericksburg, we're not that far from eachother lol. small world i guess. regardless...i just paid for brake pads for the front on my truck, 53bucks. the rears i think are 30 bucks....so really if you do it yourself(which i know you dont want to) it'll only be about 100 bucks. its easier for me to do stuff cuz i can go on base 20 miles away and use the auto hobby shop, they have all the tools and stuff i need plus they have a rotor resurfacer i can use as well. us local VA people ought to have a get together one of these days.

 

Sorry, missed a couple days since my computer crashed....whole other story.

I'm looking for a drum to drum rear is anyone knows a good place. I can't seem to get an answer from anyone other then "pinion seal" and I priced rebuilding the rear and I can't afford 2k right now. So Most places are asking anywhere from $600-$900 for a drum to drum with averages of 75,000 miles.

I guess that will be the easiest way to do it, that way I have an extra rear sitting around that I could take to someone on the side to fix then have it for when this one goes out, LOL.

Other then that....I just need to piece this thing back together, seems whoever had it put it away wet more then a couple times. Oh, btw the rear took 2 quarts of fluid to get it to the check area.......seems I figured why my rear is clunking now...

John

 

thats really bad. you should check your diff fluid at every oil change, and more if your seals are leaking. i have to check my every week because of my front axle seals and i can't afford to get them replaced. plus, i dont think thats the reason you're getting the clunk, because everyone that has ever had a dodge gets a clunk. hence the "chrysler clunk" lol

 

Well, not to sound like a *****, but I refuse to believe that dodge/chrysler has produced a product that "clunks" and considers that normal. lol.......I could understand if its the style tranny and its makes some noises in/out of gears maybe, but this is flat out. The rear is going out. I've driven enough trucks to know what is going on.

My guess would be that the diff was run dry for a while, and now stuff is just worn out so it isn't tight in there no longer. Maybe the center pin got loose and has just been workin loose, or the ring/pinion is jus warped cause of no oil.

The reason I refuse to believe this is normal for this truck is if you sit in gear with your foot on the brake and let off and start rolling, there is a slip second that you can feel in the rear where its free rolling and then it catches.......when my blazer did that years ago it was the spider gear.

It's just hard to believe that this is "normal" for a dodge.......