Rear Posi and Front Locker
http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/Produc...cker/index.htm
Spend the money go detroit lockers. Thats what I want front and rear and 3.92.
Spend the money go detroit lockers. Thats what I want front and rear and 3.92.
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Gainesville, Ga.
depending on where you live, and how often you use 4wd on the road, use caution with a front locker on a daily driver. it can make for some squirrelly, if not worse, driving in wet or slick road conditions. it can slide out from under you in flash.
if you only use 4wd when offroad, then its not a concern. but if you live up north and routinely use 4wd on snowy or icey paved roads, then you may want an LSD in the front instead of a locker.
pretty much all LSD's are expensive, plus the install, which is also expensive.
detroit lockers are expensive, plus install. richmond/powertrax/lockright/noslip's are cheaper, diy, and ok for stock type setups.
if you only use 4wd when offroad, then its not a concern. but if you live up north and routinely use 4wd on snowy or icey paved roads, then you may want an LSD in the front instead of a locker.
pretty much all LSD's are expensive, plus the install, which is also expensive.
detroit lockers are expensive, plus install. richmond/powertrax/lockright/noslip's are cheaper, diy, and ok for stock type setups.
I'm in 2wd on the road unless theres 6" of snow. My buddy he is going to put my new gears in. He said pay someone to do the locker. He built a mitsubishi eclipse that ran 153pmh at 11.30 with 28 lbs of boost.
Having run a front locker for a brief time, I would not recommend it for for snow or mud running since the front axle will tend to push rather than steer. For low speed travel like rock crawling it is kick ***, except if you need to make a tight turn. Having lockouts would be a plus for that. Heavy footed throttle heads will want to have spare axles ready to swap.
Having said that, I would run a locker in the rear and an air or electric locker in the front. Some selectable lockers convert to a Limited Slip when disengaged. As stated, they are NOT cheap!
If you aren't changing gears and not running over a 35 inch tire you could run a power trax or similar "lunchbox" style locker out back. This style replaces your spider gears (or factory LSD) and can be installed by a shade tree mechanic with some experience and a willingness to follow the directions.
Having said that, I would run a locker in the rear and an air or electric locker in the front. Some selectable lockers convert to a Limited Slip when disengaged. As stated, they are NOT cheap!
If you aren't changing gears and not running over a 35 inch tire you could run a power trax or similar "lunchbox" style locker out back. This style replaces your spider gears (or factory LSD) and can be installed by a shade tree mechanic with some experience and a willingness to follow the directions.
Last edited by dsertdog56; Apr 13, 2009 at 10:34 PM.
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Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Skyway, Colorado
+1 on the rear Detroit Full locker. If you end up putting a LSD or any other locker up front, you need to consider removing your factory pneumatic hubs and replacing them with a manual hub. There is few choices, and all are expensive, but it is cheaper than getting towed home with busted hubs.
+1 on the rear Detroit Full locker. If you end up putting a LSD or any other locker up front, you need to consider removing your factory pneumatic hubs and replacing them with a manual hub. There is few choices, and all are expensive, but it is cheaper than getting towed home with busted hubs.
