I know you can get a stock injector replacement for cheaper than that. I have you tried NAPA, Rockauto, or even the dealer?

Jason, if I'm not mistaken that type of metal clip that connects to the end of the wires pictured at Ballenger's website can be "popped" and backed out with a small standard screwdriver like you'd use for eyeglasses.

I might order me up a set and try to replace all eight. It appears the locking mechanism is the "CPA" accessory part. I'll call Ballenger tomorrow to discuss first. Thanks for that link.

I'd prefer not to cut my factory wires if that's avoidable.

 

Well I'm pondering different injectors. Gonna post about them and see what kinda response I get

 

Uh, no offense squirrels, but have you looked for our injectors lately? In store, Advance Auto had that injector at $52. I had them price match their website ($42) and order the injector, it'll be here Friday.

NAPA's cheapest injector for a 2001 5.9L V8 is $82.

Rock Auto has new injectors from $53 to $59, not including shipping (not sure if they have free shipping or what the deal is, never ordered from Rock Auto before). Remanufactured injectors for $41 to $44, which I will say no thanks to. Sure, there is a $10 core return when I send them the old one, but then you have to factor in shipping costs to get the new one to you and the old one back to them, and no thanks.

O'Reilly has the same fuel injector that Advance does, for $56.

 

I thought I found 'em somewhere for 31.xx not too long ago, I wonder where that was.

 

OH, I remember...

I was contemplating running the 4.7 injectors in my 5.2. The 4.7 injectors fit, but run slightly richer than the 5.2/5.9 injectors.

At the time I thought I was dealing with a lean condition (that weird pinging thread I wrote.) Thought a slightly richer injector might help.

 

Ah, nice. Thats a neat idea actually.

 

Update on my stumble/hesitation problem with the Superchips.

Well, I decided to run the tune while I unplugged sensors and what-not, tying to determine the source of the problem.

I figured out that almost exactly 4 minutes from start, the problem almost completely disappears. The only symptom after that (until the truck is shut off) is heavy pinging at WOT over 50 mph. If I shut the truck off, it hesitates/bucks/near stalls unless I wait four minutes. Then it takes off like a bat out of h*ll, almost as if there is no problem.

My theory then is that something is occurring during open loop that is corrected when the oxygen sensors kick in. I unplugged the injector that tested so much higher (ohms) than the others, and the engine idle and under load RPMs change. So it might be part of the problem, but its not the whole problem. Regardless, I will be replacing it later today or this weekend with a brand new BWD injector.

I tested my AIT sensor. After its been running for ten-fifteen minutes in 65 degree dry weather, the sensor reads 2.2k ohms, which I've read is telling the PCM the air is 100 degrees. After four hours, the reading was 12.8k ohms, which is about 60 degrees if I've understood what I've read correctly. By then, it was about 50 degrees out (night). That all sound about right?

I want to check the ECT sensor next, but not sure it could be capable of causing the issue. Could the MAP sensor do this, and then be corrected by the O2 sensors in closed loop?

Keep in mind, the sensor must be sending some sort of data to the PCM, its just incorrect. The reason I say this is there is no CEL, which a completely dead sensor would obviously set off.

BTW, speaking of the ECT sensor, where is the harness for that located? I see it in the service manual, just not sure of its location still. Also, would I basically have to take the thing apart to the thermostat to replace it?

 

on your truck, the ECT sensor will either be on the right or left side of the therm housing.....should be able to drain some coolant and get to it without removing anything....on my g/fs gpas ram and mine, the sensors fell apart when taken out.....

 

heres some pics, i think yours will be the 2nd one

 

Thanks for the pics. I'll be looking for that little sucker tomorrow after I get off work.\

BTW, replaced that "faulty" injector this evening. It tested good after I pulled it, 12.3 ohms. Oh well, something must have been up with it to test differently at different times. The new BWD injector I installed tests a perfect 12.0 ohms.

Also replaced the IAT sensor. The BWD IAT sensor is a very tiny hair larger than stock... I accidentally broke the threadded part of it off during install, wasn't even turning that hard yet. Used some RTV to seal the sensor back onto its threaded piece that was still in the manifold, and its holding good and sealed nice. BWD from O'Reillys carries a Lifetime Warranty, so I should never have to try to get that threaded piece out of that hole (I hope).