BINGO , post 2,5 and 16 nailed it and you just did the test , unplug the sensor . The PCM will run off preset settings and but generate a CEL . If the problem goes away , replace the sensor . It's not something to leave for an extened period , but a few days is harmless , make sure the harness is wired away from the exhaust manifold .

 

That's fine for when playing games out on the course and we know each other but, I think it's inappropriate to purposefully do this to someone who's not participating in the game. I think it stinks to be quite frank.

I know what you mean about engineers on those aspects of the job but, I am not a paper pushing theory monger but a hands on engineer. I talk the talk and walk the walk and I get on the machines and program, I put the stuff together and go through the work instructions to ensure that it all goes together and meets all the paper work as well as all the bloody computer work. Hell, I even work on my own cars.

I don't think articles on the net can make anyone an expert. Reading only takes one so far. You have to do it like I am doing right now on mine. You design the parts, you install them and you test them out and change and refine them as needed. Then, you learn from that experience. I am working with one of the best engine guys and EFI guy on the planet and luckily, he lives a town over. These are Nascar and Indy guys who've been doing it since they were in their teens and are now in their late 60s. Articles in m opinion are one dimensional and half the time, they don't provide all the information either. I believe that the only way to get it down is to just do it- simple as that.

 

TO the O.P, you cleared up your hissing sound at the TB for good? Or is it still an issue?

When removing the O2 sensor, does it clear it up 100%? Are the idle and backfire issues gone 100%?

 

I finally replaced the up stream 02 sensor. Engine runs and ideals fine after the 3 min warm up period. and the engine light went back off. I could not fine any BTW so I went with the Bosh sensor. Thanks

 

I hate Bosch sensors. Too bad you couldn't find the NTK sensors- way better quality than Bosch.

 

My truck has started doing the exact same thing. Oddly though it began to do this after I replaced the fuel hose that the squirel chewed through.

 

That's one hungry squirrel! What fuel hose did he chew threw? He must have super strong teeth because, those lines are steel coming from the tank and then attaches to a SS braided flex line!

 

It was the section of rubber hose that runs from one fuel rail to the other. I am sure he won't do it again after getting a blast of gasoline in his face.

 

if you hear an air hising sound then you are sucking air from somewhere causing it to run really lean! even if you cant hear it, will still cause it to pop/backfire and actually cause your cat to overheat and burn out. when that happens it gets expencive. if the sound goes away when it warms up whats happening is the engine block warms up, expands and closes off most of the leak to where you cant hear it. more then likely its the intake or the throttle body gasket, these dodges are well known for blowing intake gaskets

 

To check for vaccum leaks just put a vaccum gauge on the back side of the throttle body using a T and check the vaccum or on the brake booster with a T before the check valve. In every Haynes Service manual there is a Vaccum gauge diagnostic check. IT WORKS! I have found many bad hoses and burnt valves using this test. It is real simple just start engine and check the gauge. If you buy a vaccum gauge it may have the checks printed on the back side of the packaging.