Thats the one i have, works great! And yes that spacer will work...
The only thing I had to do was make an S-Bolt. Picture below.



All I did was buy 1/4" threaded rod from Home Depot and used 2 pliers and some elbow grease to bend it to that shape. I had to check it a few times by screwing it into the throttle body and also bending it to make sure it fit properly.

I remember searching on other forums they talked about this and explained it clearly, WITH PICTURES. lol

Anyways Good Luck man!

I ordered the AEM 14"x3" Round Air Filter and get it tomorrow, cant wait!

 

i had a friend heat and bend the rod for me last night. I got my spacer just now from ups. so tonight i'm going to put everything on at class. I'll take before and after pics.

 

I just took a hammer and a vice...beat the **** out of it. Worked like a charm

 

im not arguing the idea that a drop base outflows a flat base, but you really cant get any solid information from those pictures.

I could draw a cross section of a straight exhaust pipe, then insert some squiggly lines and claim that it creates too many turbulents.

 

I'm going to see how i like this set up and maybe in the fall i will order the mopar one.

 

I'll agree its not just the pictures...more like what the rep explained in the tech seminar I attended many years ago. Moroso did a lot of dyno time to show the benefits of THIER drop base over a flat one. I have a hard time believing a drop base will cause a 5-10 horsepower loss when more data exists to the contrary.

Your statement about pipes and squiggles has more validity then you may imagine. Think about it. Consider your OEM exhaust system...the pipes have "squiggles" in nearly every bend. So do pipes bent by Joes muffler shop. And guess what? They create turbulence! Sometimes that turbulence creats resonating waves that actually quiet exhaust pulses, but a byproduct is backpressure. Which is why all headers and high quality exhaust systems in the aftermarket use mandrel bent pipe with little or no squiggles. We pay for all that extra engineering and manufacturing too! And yes, thats part of the "sound" in a true perfomance exhaust.

As an aside...your stock air cleaner tube also has ribs in it for the same reason. The ribs, or squigglies create turbulence that causes the airflow waves to bounce off each other, causing frequency cancelation, and yes, some restriction. Its why some companies (like Airram?) simply replace the tube on a hi-po intake.

Sorry for the thread hijack, but some of my pinhead buddies thought you oughta know.

 

i dont think you understood what i meant by squiggles. The diagrams are drawn by a person, this doesnt prove anything. i could draw a circle and put a line through it, then claim that it proves all birds can fly backwards, they just dont try hard enough. it makes no sence.

Did Moroso test its own drop base against its own flat base? it sound like you have done more research on the subject than i have, so im not arguing your data. im just saying drawn diagrams dont really prove anything.

The only reason i brought it up in the first place, is because i remembered an article in HotRod a few years back that did this very test.

they tested drop base vs. flat base with both 3" and 4" elements and both the Flo-top and solid lid. im pretty sure it showed around a 5hp difference between the drop base and the flat base. but you seem so sure, so ill have to go back and look again.

 

I think this is becoming much ado about nothing. Or is it a lot of squiggles...?
Now you've entered something about a flo top and a solid lid. Are you talking tops or bottoms here? Is this the K&N flow top? That may add 5 hp on a flat bottomed 14" A/C asembly, but we'd be comparing apples to oranges. A flo top may not work as well on a drop base because the drop base by design takes the air in from the sides.

If anyone is still reading this for 14x3 info, I installed a dropped base system and used a 1 inch aluminum spacer purchased on ebay. I've had the plastic ones melt before. Its a tight fit, but no worse than the stock system to remove and install. I have noticed no loss from the highly modified K&N FIPK I had on it, and the GF, who seldom drives the truck, says it seems to have more acceleration from a stop. Peace!

 

I don't have a spacer on mine. I tried to use a spacer and it was to tall and that was the 1/2 inch pastic one.

 

are you sure its all the way down on the tb and sealing? clearing your linkages?