1996, Ram 1500, 5.2L, Won't Start

The engine will crank but not turn over. Problem started months ago as intermitant. Truck would stall suddenly, not speed dependent. Sometimes it would restart immed. Other times after it would sit for a bit. Yesterday, I was starting up a hill, halfway it stalls. Tried to restart several times, maybe 10 minutes between each attempt, no joy. I went home, got a container of gas, some booster cables and my tool box. BTW, my gas gauge is also broken, reads full all the time. Knowing I had just put about 10 gallons in that morning, I wasn't to concerned about the fuel level. Just the same, I put about a gallon in. Hooked u booster cables to the truck and let it charge, since the power level was down due to my previous attempts at starting. After three or four attempts, the truck turned over. It ran for about a mile or two and stalled. The fellow following me home jump started me again. The truck would crank well without the jump, but only started with the jump. I went another mile to my driveway where it dutifully stalled again. Now it just plain won't start.
About me: I'm 50, not a pro mechanic, I've worked on vehicles now and then just to save a buck. Installed alts, water pumps, starters, that type of thing.
What I've done so far: I replaced the battery, it was at least ten years old anyway. Starting fluid in the the trottle body makes it turn over for a second or so. So I'm pretty sure I got spark. Tested with a volt-ohm meter the fuel system relay and asv relay. Tested the 20 amp fuse under the hood for the fuel pump. I also checked the schrader value on the fuel rail and got NO gas, both key on and key off. Also, when I turned the ignition in the PAST, I could always remember hearing the fuel pump engage. Now I can't hear a thing. Only a slight relay click under the hood.
My Conclusions: I figure it's getting spark. I'm pretty sure it's not getting fuel. The fuel pump is either not getting power now or it's bad altogether.

I'm at wits end. I'm out of work and have to get this one going, I can't afford another. If you can help or have any suggestions you think might help, I would be very thankful.

 

welcome to df.

its sounds like bad fuel pump, based on how its acting, and mostly by the fact that you're not hearing it at key on, and also that you've got no gas at the rail valve.

the only other test i would do before buying a pump, is to check for 12volt back at the pump, just to be sure that its not a wiring problem.

check here and other forums for diy info on replacing the pump. you have to either drop the tank or raise the bed. seems like a split decision on which is easiest.

pumps are sort of expensive, and they include an integrated filter. it will probably also fix your gas gauge.

 

Thanks for your input. Do you think that the power check at pump can be done without taking the tank down first? I have already studied up a bit on taking it down and it seems like a bear. I suppose it will have to be done just the same.

 

i don't know. the electrical connector will unplug from the top of the tank, but i don't know if there's enough room to see and feel and get it unplugged.

 

Thanks again, I will try that in the morning.

 

I had very simmilar problems and I replaced the fuel pump and it fixed it. It would run fine for a while but after some time the pressure at the rack would be next to nothing. I would let it sit for a while and it would run again but die sooner this time. After ruling out bad wires, plugs, injectors, and other things, I decided to do the pump and it worked like a charm.

 

Thanks Tim, momemtum is building for me to just siphon the tank and get started. I just need two cups of coffee and an iron will.

 

Ok on these trucks quite often you can have someone turn on the key as you rubber mallet or hit the bottom of the gas tank. This usually jars the pump enough to get it to spin. You will hear it. Try it a few times if need be.
Next, I really don't think you can get to the plug without dropping the tank.
On my 96, I could buy the pump alone aftermarket without replacing the entire fuel module. It was about $45 if I recall. But the rest of the unit is the fuel level float and stuff,which you might need. Mine at 1/2 tank started dropping to empty. When I had it apart I could see that the contact point was bent away from the circuit board coil. Bent it back and that fixed everything. The dealer does sell just the fuel guage parts.