grinding noise only after bump
#11
in addition to testing the vac motor and its ability to slide the shift fork back and forth,
also check that the collar slides easily on and off the inner shaft.
there is a bearing and a bushing on the end of the 2 shafts at the cad. i think its a bushing on the inside and a bearing on the outer. make sure everything is tight and lines up properly.
if you had a vac leak not pulling the collar to the unlock position, it might drift around and grind. those vac lines between cad and t-case are in a vulnerable position.
the hard part about troubleshooting it, is that once installed, you can't see what the damn thing is doing.
also check that the collar slides easily on and off the inner shaft.
there is a bearing and a bushing on the end of the 2 shafts at the cad. i think its a bushing on the inside and a bearing on the outer. make sure everything is tight and lines up properly.
if you had a vac leak not pulling the collar to the unlock position, it might drift around and grind. those vac lines between cad and t-case are in a vulnerable position.
the hard part about troubleshooting it, is that once installed, you can't see what the damn thing is doing.
#12
Got the vac tester. Vac coming to the shifter is working perfectly.
I took the vac shifter apart, cleaned everything, put it back together, put in new oil and.. no more noise. I drove it for 40 miles and no grinding.
I did not replace anything but the gear oil (when I took it off there was no oil in it).
All I can figure is the lack of oil and the metal dust was causing a poor vacuum seal in the motor. Any better ideas?
I took the vac shifter apart, cleaned everything, put it back together, put in new oil and.. no more noise. I drove it for 40 miles and no grinding.
I did not replace anything but the gear oil (when I took it off there was no oil in it).
All I can figure is the lack of oil and the metal dust was causing a poor vacuum seal in the motor. Any better ideas?
#13
dude, I had the same problem on mine, mine is also a 96.
It turned out to be that the front axle needed more oil. Check the oil level in your front axle.
When I had that sound I had to pull the 4x lever to try and engage it but not really doing it and it went away for a while at least. I took everything appart and could not find a damm thing wrong.
At the end, it was just the oil level in the axle that was missing about 1 or 1½ quarts.
try it and give it a shot, you'll be surprised...
It turned out to be that the front axle needed more oil. Check the oil level in your front axle.
When I had that sound I had to pull the 4x lever to try and engage it but not really doing it and it went away for a while at least. I took everything appart and could not find a damm thing wrong.
At the end, it was just the oil level in the axle that was missing about 1 or 1½ quarts.
try it and give it a shot, you'll be surprised...
#14
#15
Hey I had the exact same problem and it was the transfer case snap ring. When my suspension flexed the drive shaft would push the transfer case gears together causing that grinding noise. An easy way to check is to pull the 4x4 shifter towards the seat and see if it stops. Don't drive it too long like this if it is the problem. you dont need a rebuiild kit, if it is you just need the new ring or an after market repair thingy that stops it from happening again.
#17
#18
Your truck is a third gen, and completely different than ours. You need to be in the 3rd gen ram tech section. Start your own thread there please.
#19
Does your 4wheel light on the dash come on when it does it? It might not. My first guess is that your CAD is not fully disengaged or is moving some. When you hit the bump, the collar is barely moving over where the splines are rubbing but it is not over far enough to fully engage.
Being a 96, I'd be more inclined that it is the diaphram going out and not something in the t-case.
Being a 96, I'd be more inclined that it is the diaphram going out and not something in the t-case.
#20