FYI about the date. When I special ordered my Ram 2500 in Jan 2000 I received a March built 2001 year model. The model year 2001 Rams started coming off the line in Feb 2000.

 

mines a 2000 built in 99, paid 15k for it in 04 with 74000 miles on it. so yeah, thats a fair price if its in good shape mechanically

you need to look at the pcm, if it has a sticker on it that says "authorized software update" or something like that then it has the death flash and is basically being robbed of power to prevent pinging.

the transmissions have an average life of about 125k and the oem torque converters last about 50k and complete rebuilds normally run about 2k$ with a new one running about 3k$

the plenum leak robs power and is easy to spot if its leaking because you can see oil pooling through the flaps on the throttle body. its kind of a big job to replace, but definately worth doing yourself.

the top of the dashboard is made with inferior materials in the 00-01s so if it isn't cracked and you get it, don't put armor all on it, just use a sun shade or park it in a garage.

the tps and iac valve go out one almost every dodge but they're easy to test and change.

there are a couple other things i'm leaving out also, but with any vehicle you buy you're gonna have problems, but at least with the dodge you have this web site to help you find out exactly how to fix any problems you run into. and i'm sure most people on here would agree that dodge ram is the only way to go.

 

Yes, in order to meet federal emissions/mileage ratings and avoid government penalties, the 2000 model year production was a very short run.

OP, I'm always worried about door rust. It's usually caused by leaking seals and plugged drain holes that allow water/road salt to settle in and work thier magic. It's nearly impossible to repair and make it look nice. Everyone else has pretty much listed all the other issues that can go out on your truck.

I love my truck but have on occasion wished I gotten a 2500 so I could've had a beefier frame and larger axles to build up.

 

I'd get a 2500. and even if you don't get a cummins you still get the following from a 2500...

Increased towing capacity
Heavy duty steering (they go limp on 1500s pretty easily)
1-ton axels (along with a whole host of gear ratios, and selectable lockers not available to the chrysler 9.25)

If you get the v-10 you also get...
More power
No plenum gasket bull****
47re if automatic or NV4500 if manual which don't seem to crap out like 46re does
241 transfer case (although I cant complain about the 231)


If you do get a 1500 (like I did because i wanted the regular cab shortbed, for offroad) then try to find yourself one of the offroad models. It's got a little more lift, 4.10 gears (if not offroad model, at least try to find one with 3.92 gears) and a trussed dana 44.

 

i agree with cereal thats what i would get lol i paid 3200 for mine a lil over a month ago its a 97 with 140k