Warping Rotors
Ever since I put the '07 20" wheels on my 98, I've warped 2 sets of rotors
. I've done the bigger wheel cylinder swap but it hasn't helped. I've been looking at at set of drilled and slotted rotors but is that gonna be my best/smartest/cheapest route?
. I've done the bigger wheel cylinder swap but it hasn't helped. I've been looking at at set of drilled and slotted rotors but is that gonna be my best/smartest/cheapest route?
slotted not drilled, drilled will weaken the rotor and it sounds like you're already having issues with that. If you like the look of drilled get the dimple drilled kind. The dimples will get black and look like holes but won't weaken the rotor.
I run the powerslot cryo rotors and like them. Supposedly that's what a number of law enforcement agencies run. There was barely any wear on the rotor surface when I pulled the brakes apart after 20K just 2 weeks ago.
You might want to also try a set of Performance Friction brake pads. I really liked them last time a used them, but I didn't plan ahead for my last brake job, and I'll have to order a set for sometime this summer as NAPA premium set doesn't have as much stopping power. I've heard good things about the Hawk LTS pads but haven't run them personally to attest to them.
I run the powerslot cryo rotors and like them. Supposedly that's what a number of law enforcement agencies run. There was barely any wear on the rotor surface when I pulled the brakes apart after 20K just 2 weeks ago.
You might want to also try a set of Performance Friction brake pads. I really liked them last time a used them, but I didn't plan ahead for my last brake job, and I'll have to order a set for sometime this summer as NAPA premium set doesn't have as much stopping power. I've heard good things about the Hawk LTS pads but haven't run them personally to attest to them.
The stock size rotors on yours aren't designed for the 20" wheel, which is probably the cause of the warping. The newer trucks with those rims probably have bigger diameter, heavier rotors, which would be the "ideal" fix for your issue. But, buying the toughest rotors and pads you can find would probably work, too...just a lot of $$$.
I have the slotted/drilled Baer Rotors on my truck for 20K and the holes have not cracked yet. I soon hope to change out the Baers and get some EBC Slotted/Dimpled Black rotors.
I use Raysbestos Advanced Technology Ceramic pads.
I use Raysbestos Advanced Technology Ceramic pads.
Do you go through a lot of car washes or puddles? Now that you have new wheels your rotors are more exposed to water. When you get water on hot rotors they tend to warp. Have you got them machined?
LadenBlowfish:
That truck looks really sharp with the 20s on it, and it sure sounds like your front brakes are working hard. Can I ask what kind of rotors and pads you're using now?
That truck looks really sharp with the 20s on it, and it sure sounds like your front brakes are working hard. Can I ask what kind of rotors and pads you're using now?
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That should be good stuff. I mean...brakes aren't rocket science. Basicly its friction erosion with heat disapation in the right measure. Maybe your front brakes are doing too much and cannot dissapte the heat quickly enough.
I had a warping issue years ago. It was due to the fact I had used cheapy turned rotors with new heavy duty pads, which probably didn't disipate the heat well. I believe there was mismatch in quality and have used better quality US cast rotors with superstop pads.
Also I wasn't keeping the back shoes adjusted. Since then I have always checked my rear brake adjustment with every oil change (or if I have less pedal). Since implementing this program I've doubled the life of my front pads and also haven't had a warped rotor since. I know you've installed larger wheel cylinders, but you still have to maintain the mechanical adjustment as well.
While I applaud owners who have purchased super trick rotors, or uber stop pads, you can get the average or mildly modified ram to stop very well with good quality aftermarket stuff.
FYI, rain water or car washes should never warp a rotor unless you sprayed it when it was glowing. Rotors and pads by design need to disipate heat rapidly after each use but suffice to say that cheap parts by thier very nature don't do it as well as thier more expensive bretheren. You gets what you pay for!
I had a warping issue years ago. It was due to the fact I had used cheapy turned rotors with new heavy duty pads, which probably didn't disipate the heat well. I believe there was mismatch in quality and have used better quality US cast rotors with superstop pads.
Also I wasn't keeping the back shoes adjusted. Since then I have always checked my rear brake adjustment with every oil change (or if I have less pedal). Since implementing this program I've doubled the life of my front pads and also haven't had a warped rotor since. I know you've installed larger wheel cylinders, but you still have to maintain the mechanical adjustment as well.
While I applaud owners who have purchased super trick rotors, or uber stop pads, you can get the average or mildly modified ram to stop very well with good quality aftermarket stuff.
FYI, rain water or car washes should never warp a rotor unless you sprayed it when it was glowing. Rotors and pads by design need to disipate heat rapidly after each use but suffice to say that cheap parts by thier very nature don't do it as well as thier more expensive bretheren. You gets what you pay for!
Last edited by dsertdog56; May 27, 2009 at 12:06 PM.



