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i can see!

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Old May 31, 2009 | 01:45 AM
  #31  
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as for coming on in reverse i got the white night reverse lights that mount to the step bumper, was pretty easy to set up. They also make ones that go right in the hitch and plug into the wiring harness. Couldn't be more happy with mine, beats the heck out of the existing reverse lights.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 01:46 AM
  #32  
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Slickery
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 02:58 AM
  #33  
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i wanted the white night but they're too proud of their product, my lights were 15$ at walmart.

the led bar is definately a good investment, it makes you a lot more visible and easy to follow if you're leading somone because not too many people have them. i got a cheap bully 3 piece one a while back off ebay and it gets moisture in it and a couple of the leds are out because of that. advance has a solid 60" for 50$ that i'm gonna get sometime soon. if you do get one, i suggest splicing it into your trailer wiring under the bed so your trailer connector will be free.

bluebeast, wheres your sig pic? that was a good looking truck, why aren't you showing it off any more?
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 08:33 AM
  #34  
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Good to know to stay away from theirs. I'd like to get one someday.

When I post from my cell my signature doesn't show up.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 10:38 AM
  #35  
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looks good.
if you ever get tired of turning the toggle switch on and off, then just put a relay anywhere in your circuit and tap the reverse wire to operate it.

be careful of welding too much around the lights and making them hard to get to or replace. my very expensive lights ($7 at northern) tend to need replacement about once a year. it might have to do with backing in at the boat ramp - maybe/not sure.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 11:04 AM
  #36  
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try some silicone caulk around the edges and connections in the back.
 
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Old May 31, 2009 | 03:10 PM
  #37  
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+1 on the silicone. i used liquid electric tape on all the wires and i don't think the lights will generate enough pressure to cause a problem with the silicone. and if they're drains instead of pressure relief (not sure) then so long as you have them sealed good enough then you won't need a drain.

also, my brackets are bolted onto the back of the hitch and the lights attach to the sides. the skid plates will run underneath so that won't be a problem if i have to replace them.

and i like the toggle. i won't need them that often, just when there is no light at all behind the truck. plus having them on the toggle means that i can leave it in park to turn them on.

the bully light bar isn't the best, but a friend of mine got the one from advance and hasn't had a problem out of it. you just have to watch for tailgate clearance when you install it, too high and the tailgate will crush it and too low and it'll be below the bumper. also you'll probably have to cut a notch out of it for the spare tire hole.
 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 05:18 AM
  #38  
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I can see a little more now. With a little help from Jasonw's headlight relay DIY, I learned how to connect relays. Thanks to that I was able to connect my OEM fog lights and the new ones on a relay and save my fog light wires from drawing too much power.
When I turn on the fog lights and the off road lights you can barely tell that my headlights are on, which is awesome.
Check it out:


 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 05:26 AM
  #39  
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What brand off road lights are they?
 
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Old Sep 2, 2009 | 06:38 AM
  #40  
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ralley. 25$ for one pair on ebay and 30$ for the other pair at a walmart in Oklahoma.
 
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