I'm tempted by the V-powers squirrels, because they are pretty inexpensive. I'm also tempted by the good reports on the E plugs, but they are expensive.

Thanks for the input.

 

Back to the OP ....

Dude, I just want to sneak into your garage and wipe my dirty greasy finger on your motor.

 

I totally agree with your statement. You need almost twice as much fuel to gain the same power output. My buddies that are running full e85 are 500whp SRT4 and 650whp evo. SRT4 is running 1000cc injectors with an high flow pump and an additional inline fuel pump. The evo is running 1200cc injectors with 2 255 walbro's fuel pumps.

A set of plugs and an 91 tune will not be enough to run full e85. The tune is for 91 octane gasoline. That tune is to lean your air fuel ratio out to give you more power. While ethonal will require much more fuel, meaning adding fuel to create the same a/f ratio. That's why if your thinking about running pure ethonal due to less energy in the fuel, you will lose power on your 91 octane tune.

 

To get this argumen....err....topic back on track: I drive a 99 Ram 1500 4X4 with the 360 and I just bought a new MAP sensor and will be replacing it this weekend along with a new pre-cat O2 sensor. Since I'm doing the O2 as well, the results will be a little skewed, but will at least show something. Currently, I get 10MPG no matter HOW I drive it! Hopefully, this will improve that and improve the power a bit.

Also, someone asked if someone would take their old one apart and take pics. I'm all about taking things apart! Expect pics this weekend of the inside of the famed MAP sensor.

 

You still don't understand.

I have never and will never run e85. I never said I ran full ethanol. I only run 10% ethanol, 90% gasoline, mixed at the pump by the gas station. All 89 octane pumps in SD are 10% ethanol, 90% gasoline mixes, and Shell now does 91/92 octane the same way.

I believe that if the Evo or SRT4 ran at high enough compression, they wouldn't need such large injectors/fuel setups. Ethanol is a higher octane than regular gasoline, but only at high enough compression.

To the OP and the OT: I look forward to seeing the inside of the old MAP. I've read a dozen different articles about what the insides are, so it'll be good to see it finally. I should have torn mine apart, but I accidentally threw it away with some other miscellaneous car stuff the other day.

 

I'll be watching for that post with plastic in hand. If changing the MAP sensor helps I'll be grabbing one myself.

 

Ok, did the MAP sensor and the O2 sensor along with an oil change this morning. I can definitely tell that the truck is still peppy even once up to operating temp. I won't have a mileage report until the computer relearns the new sensors but will report after about 2 tanks.

And without further adieu, the pics of the INSIDE of a MAP sensor (sorry they're cell phone pics...I left my camera at work)







That yellow thing in the center there is squishy...kinda like a non-hardening gell.

 

I replaced mine today too, and noticed little if any better response. Of course I too , will not know anything about fuel economy until next week.

 

so will a bad map make the truck run a little off until warmed up?

 

My dad bought an alternator for his super duty from Autozone (Duralast) with a lifetime warranty and has had it replaced 3 times since, when it failed. The duralast batteries aren't that great either. Generally, I try to stay away from electrical parts from autozone.

But this is great find. I wanna try this for myself now.