Another "truck wont start" thread
on my sisters truck her no start was from either the ignition switch or the battery wire that goes to the fuse box. i can't remember if she tried to start it after the new ignition switch but i put a new wire from the fuse box to the battery because hers was all bumpy and blistered, i guess it had corrosion in it and didn't move enough volts or something, either way with the new wire it worked. so check out the wires to see if they're all tight and have good contact, and check for damaged wires. hers looked like it had bb's in it or something, it didn't look like a good wire at all.
I'm only assuming the ground wires cuz this past winter i rebuilt my accord engine and after i was done it was doing the samething and after three days of trouble shooting it was one little ground wire that wasn't connected.....anyways here some pics of the ground wires i've seen:






Last edited by RonRacer; Jun 9, 2009 at 07:46 PM.
cant tell clearly, but are those grounds nice and tight?....on my truck the grounds are bolted to the back of the heads.....id also check out the wires to the computer and maybe unhook and rehook them back up
thats what i'm thinking. if you look at the second pic, that wire goes from the firewall to the passenger side header but its not bolted on it just kinda on there......??? and what do yall think of the abs light coming on???
Do the following:
Make sure the truck is off. Remove the starter relay. Look on the bottom of the relay, and by each terminal it should have a small number stamped by it.
1) Take a multimeter and test for battery voltage at terminal 30. There should be battery voltage here at all times. (This is your constant hot)
2) Now, use the multimeter to test for continuity between terminal 85 and a good ground. Terminal 85 leads to your park/neutral safety switch. Try this with the gear selector in both park and neutral. There should be little resistance.
3) For the next step, you really need a helper, unless you can place the multimeter in a location where you can keep an eye on the readings from the drivers seat. Place the multimeter back to voltage reading, and connect to terminal 86. Now, turn the key to "START" and you should be getting battery voltage.
(4) You can rule out wiring/starter with the following: BUT DO SO WITH EXTREME CAUTION!!! Fabricate a jumper wire. You will be jumpering starter relay terminal 30 (battery in) to 87 (out to starter). Contact the jumper wire between these terminals for a VERY short period of time (like 1 second). If, when the terminals are connected, the starter engages, it looks like the wiring checks out.
If (1) is unsuccessful, you have a problem with the wiring between the battery and the starter relay.
If (2) is unsuccessful, you have a problem with either the park/neutral switch, or the wiring between the relay and the switch.
If (3) is unsuccessful, you have: bad wiring between the battery and ignition switch, a bad ignition switch, or bad wiring between the switch and the relay.
If (4) is unsuccessful, recheck all the wiring between the battery and starter, and the relay and the starter. Also, make sure the starter is getting a good case ground.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/attachm...elay-relay.jpg
Make sure the truck is off. Remove the starter relay. Look on the bottom of the relay, and by each terminal it should have a small number stamped by it.
1) Take a multimeter and test for battery voltage at terminal 30. There should be battery voltage here at all times. (This is your constant hot)
2) Now, use the multimeter to test for continuity between terminal 85 and a good ground. Terminal 85 leads to your park/neutral safety switch. Try this with the gear selector in both park and neutral. There should be little resistance.
3) For the next step, you really need a helper, unless you can place the multimeter in a location where you can keep an eye on the readings from the drivers seat. Place the multimeter back to voltage reading, and connect to terminal 86. Now, turn the key to "START" and you should be getting battery voltage.
(4) You can rule out wiring/starter with the following: BUT DO SO WITH EXTREME CAUTION!!! Fabricate a jumper wire. You will be jumpering starter relay terminal 30 (battery in) to 87 (out to starter). Contact the jumper wire between these terminals for a VERY short period of time (like 1 second). If, when the terminals are connected, the starter engages, it looks like the wiring checks out.
If (1) is unsuccessful, you have a problem with the wiring between the battery and the starter relay.
If (2) is unsuccessful, you have a problem with either the park/neutral switch, or the wiring between the relay and the switch.
If (3) is unsuccessful, you have: bad wiring between the battery and ignition switch, a bad ignition switch, or bad wiring between the switch and the relay.
If (4) is unsuccessful, recheck all the wiring between the battery and starter, and the relay and the starter. Also, make sure the starter is getting a good case ground.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/attachm...elay-relay.jpg
Update:
so a friend of mine has a multimeter so i was waiting on him to come to dodgerules trouble shoot advise when my dad suggested to try and jump the starter from the battery. so i took a wire and put one end on the (+) terminal of the battery then touched the lead inside the plug of the smaller brown wire that runs from the starter to the fuse box and it cranked right up!?!?! so from this info what do you guys think? ingition???
so a friend of mine has a multimeter so i was waiting on him to come to dodgerules trouble shoot advise when my dad suggested to try and jump the starter from the battery. so i took a wire and put one end on the (+) terminal of the battery then touched the lead inside the plug of the smaller brown wire that runs from the starter to the fuse box and it cranked right up!?!?! so from this info what do you guys think? ingition???



