Talk about a stubborn nut!
#11
06-17-2009, 09:57 AM
the pb is a waste of time, that stuff is useless. i use CRC Knocker loose and its the best penetrating fluid i've used so far (haven't tried them all). i haven't seen a nut or bolt stay stucks with that stuff yet but i'm gonna do the same job your doing in a couple days so we'll see if its as good as i hype it up to be.
also, zman swears by cyclo penetrating fluid. he's been using it for 30 years so it must be some good stuff.
also, zman swears by cyclo penetrating fluid. he's been using it for 30 years so it must be some good stuff.
Someone mentioned a ¾" breaker. That's good advice as an axle nut will break a ½" breaker.
#12
06-17-2009, 10:06 AM
Legend
+1
You need a 3/4" breaker, the bolt is factory torqued to 185 ft/lbs, you don't want it coming off while driving, now do you?
Check Harbor Freight for a breaker bar, Sears will want your nuts for one, LOL!
And make sure you get the appropriate 3/4 socket, don't use one of those adapters on a 1/2" socket or it'll snap.
You need a 3/4" breaker, the bolt is factory torqued to 185 ft/lbs, you don't want it coming off while driving, now do you?
Check Harbor Freight for a breaker bar, Sears will want your nuts for one, LOL!
And make sure you get the appropriate 3/4 socket, don't use one of those adapters on a 1/2" socket or it'll snap.
#13
06-17-2009, 10:07 AM
Legend
#15
06-17-2009, 10:24 AM
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the knocker loose doesn't need all that extra work. you spray it, tap it a few times to work it into the threads, spray again and crank it off. i may have just never come across a really bad one to try that stuff on though. i only break it out when the bolts look like they need it and i haven't seen one stay stuck with a shot of it yet. and i still think pb is worthless.
i got a 3/4" t-handle breaker bar from tractor supply for 15$. you can slide it to the end for a breaker bar or in the middle for a T. and i tried all the auto parts stores, then lowes and couldn't find the 1 11/16" socket (highest was 1 1/4"). then i remembered that tractors have really big nuts and bolts and sure enough, tractor supply had it.
i got a 3/4" t-handle breaker bar from tractor supply for 15$. you can slide it to the end for a breaker bar or in the middle for a T. and i tried all the auto parts stores, then lowes and couldn't find the 1 11/16" socket (highest was 1 1/4"). then i remembered that tractors have really big nuts and bolts and sure enough, tractor supply had it.
#16
06-17-2009, 10:27 AM
The air cooled VW's have an axle nut that has to be held in place with 230-ft/lbs of torque. Many Noobs bend or snap their breaker bars trying to remove the castle nut and are schooled into getting this tool. It works great removing the axle nut as well as the gland nut from the flywheel. Harbor Freight has something similar, but it is shiat.
#18
06-17-2009, 10:44 AM
#19
06-17-2009, 11:03 AM
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this is the knocker loose.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4JB30
the tools page is the one you posted.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....e=ACC-C10-7036
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4JB30
the tools page is the one you posted.
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails....e=ACC-C10-7036