car? i thought you had a 2000 ram, which is a truck.

anyway, the passenger seal is inside the cad unit. you have to take out the passenger axle shaft/hub/brakes/cad unit to get to it. you will be under the truck looking at the back of the axle. on mine there was a stop in the axle tube for the seal so it would only drive until it hit that. i had to make a slide hammer to drive mine in. the slide hammer was washers, nuts, threaded rod, masking tape and a sledgehammer head.
i put tape around the threads on one end so i wouldn't chew up the new seal and put it through the new seal then attached the nut with a washer that is the same diameter as the inside of the axle tube, so it went nut, washers, new seal going from driver to passenger side.
on the outside of the axle tube i had the sledgehammer head over the threaded rod with a big washer on the end.
i was under the truck making sure that everything stayed lined up and had my dad hitting the slide hammer until the seal was driven all the way in.

you will want a good penetrating fluid for this job. see if you can find one of these: CRC Knock'er Loose, Cyclo Breakaway or AeroKroil (otherwise known as Kroil oil made by Kano labs). those fluids just take a spray and a tap a few minutes (to an hour, depending on rust) before disassembly and the nuts/bolts will come out with ease.
if you use wd40, pb blaster or liquid wrench, then plan on having to spray every day for a week before they start to penetrate.

 

I had the whole front end apart like 2 months ago or whatever it was. Did ball joints and all that. I must have tore the passenger seal when I put the axle back in, because that is when it started leaking.

I understand how you guys did the seal install. I wonder if I can use my portapower to press it in. I wonder what the dodge tool looks like.


-- Joe

 

I did the seal a few weeks ago.

So on my 2000, passenger side, was really easy.. Remove the Caliper and rotor, axle nut, bearing, and axle.

Remove the cad unit set asside.

Using a long 3/8" bar knock the seal out.

Put the new seal in place. I used a peice of like 2" exhaust pipe which fit inside the seal, and a long pry bar. I evenly pressed the seal in. The exhaust pipe allowed me to provide even pressure on the outside edges of the seal while pressing it in place so it didn't warp or tear. I found this much easier than using threaded rod, and it took like 90 seconds.

Had the hole thing done in under an hour on the lift.

Don't forger to put a little grease on the seal before reinstalling the axle, as you don't want the initial run to be dry.

-- Joe

 

nice. do you have a picture of your prying method? or a good description of how you did it.

 

Didn't take a picture but..

The inside diameter of the seal is dead nuts on with the outside diameter of like a 2 1/4" (or something like that) exhaust pipe. I had one lying around. So what I did was cut 1" off the pipe, and it inserted into the seal so it just pushes on the metal cage of the seal evenly. You push the seal into the axle tube where it seats, then you use a prybar (or two) prying evenly on the exhaust pipe and against the flat part of the tube where the CAD bolts on. Just keep even pressure and it will slide in and bottom out.. Grease the rubber lip on the seal after yanking the exhaust pipe out with your pinky, and re-assemble.

I have one more leak I need to resolve. On the transfer case, where the front shaft goes in. either the yoke has runout, or the seal is bad. It's leaking ATF all over the yoke/ujoint.

-- Joe

 

Hey guys, I know this is an old thread, but I'm trying to replace both the driver and passenger side seals on the front axle of a 2000 Dodge 2500.

We got the passenger side seal out, but I can't get the intermediate shaft out in order to remove the diff. The collar for the CAD slides on and off of the shaft easily enough, but when I try to pull it out through the CAD housing it gets hung up between the centering pin in the end of the intermediate shaft and the CAD housing, the collar is just to wide.

With the collar on the intermediate shaft we can slide the shaft about 2" inches to the passenger side, but that's not enough to remove the diff.

How do I remove the collar and intermediate shaft in order to remove the diff so I can get to the driver side seal???

 

you have to dismantle half the %$#$ truck to do this.

remove wheels, brakes, big axle nut, hub bolts on the back of the bearings, hubs, outer axles, and cad. slide passenger side inner axle out a little ways.
remove diff carrier. and finally - there's a $#@# $10 seal on the drivers side.

sorry, its just stupid as hell to put the seals inside the diff.

 

We've got everything torn down. Any idea how far over the intermediate shaft slides? We can only get it to slide over about 2". The collar for the CAD keeps it from sliding further into the axle tube.

 

with the cad removed,

[make a note of the orientation of the collar. its not the same on both sides]

if you slide the outer axle outwards some, then (i think) the collar should slide off and fall out the cad hole.
then the inner shaft should slide out.

 

cad is removed, outer axle shaft is out.

I can slide the collar off the end of the intermediate shaft, but it does not fit out the hole. It gets wedged between the housing and the locating pin in the end of the intermediate shaft. The intermediate shaft is pushed to the left (Driver side) as far as it will go in order to make room and I still can't get the collar out.

This is on a 2nd gen 2500 with a Dana 60 front. I'm wondering if the crossshaft in the diff carrier needs to be removed in order to slide the intermediate shaft more to the driver side in order to remove the collar. Then the intermediate shaft could be removed. That's the only way I can think of to get it out. Thoughts?