well my battery is about 3 years old and this morning it did not want to stay running. so im goin to change batteries. when i went to tighten my battery cables after a pcm reset i accidently touched my pliers to the metal thing with the metal tubes by the fuse box behind the battery, the thing that goes to the brake booster i think(maybe you guys know what im talkin about) so im thinking i might have blown a sensor or something. because when i start y truck it will idle fine but after a few minutes it will die if i dont keep my foot on the gas a little. so can anyone tell what i F'ed up. help would be much appreciated

 

The computer might need to learn idle again(check hayes manual on replace/reseting pcm).. same thing has happened to me.. disconect the battery again and connect same... before you start it put the key forward in run... (Not start) and slowly step on the gas pedal all the way to its stop and release... then shut the key off and start it normally.. you might have to hold it at idle for a few...my truck has done the exact same thing..hope this helps

 

You may very well have hosed the PCM. You need to check all the fuses and relays first though. And the symptoms you state, are usually related to the IAC or TPS.

 

Once the engine is running a bad battery would not cause what you're describing if the charging system is working properly. Don't be so quick to replace that battery without having it tested first.

 

Now that I read his post again, I agree that the pcm just needs to reset the idle. But on the other hand. If a few starts and drive cycles doesn't cure the prob, then there are other issues obviously. Shorting the battery is not a good thing, as the voltage regulator is located in the PCM.

 

if running it a little doesn't help then another thing you can try is to swap your fog light or horn relay (if they work) for the asd relay. when that relay goes bad it will make it not want to stay running at idle. the iac will also make it not want to stay running at idle. try the relay first since it is a fast free test and if its bad you can get a new one for 6-10$.

you can take the alternator and battery off and go to a parts store and have them tested to make sure they are good. you don't have to take them off if you can keep it running long enough to drive it up there. if its not them then i would say that its probably either the asd relay or the iac.

 

well i reset the pcm and reved it to about 2-3k for a few mins and got it warmed up so its in closed loop mode and then it idled where its supposed to then i gave it a few quick revs and it only tried to die once, it fell below 500 rpms but ill drive it tomorrow and see if its whats up

 

if it only tried to die once then it is probably is just a relearning deal.

 

Sounds more like a vacuum leak than anything

 

vacuum leak my ***** it was the pcm i guess it just needed to relearn the idle