is it like the abs is kicking on and off
or more like a flat spot in the rotor?

 

it feels exactly like a warped rotor (flat spot) when it does do it. but it doesn't do it every time i hit the brakes.

i didn't kink the brake hose when i took it off. it came off and went straight up to the 5/50 cord i had tied onto the shock tower.

i didn't have the vibration after the driver axle seal replacement. it showed up after the passenger seal replacement so it has to have something to do with the passenger brakes.

i checked the temp when i got home this morning. both sides were identical. 275º on the rotor and around 117º on the caliper. so i doubt its a sticking issue.

I'm leaning toward a contaminant or a soft spot on the pads from a contaminant. so I'm going to pull the brakes off and hit the rotor and pads with some sand paper and then brake cleaner to see if that will fix it. and I'll lube the slide pins again while I'm at it.

 

ok heres a shot in the dark but maybe you have a bad u joint that you just replaced. or by anychance did you push the u-joints caps into far and now that they are tight you could have crushed the needle bearings inside. now this would be hard to do but unless you used a press, maybe bent the yolk for the u-joint

 

also i was just thinking try rotating the pass tires and see if that cures the problem you may have spit a wheel weight and now everything is tightyou just feel the vibration.
also did you push back the caliper cylinder w/out releasing the bleed screw first.
w/out backing off the bleed screw before you push it back (if you have front abs) that will indeed reverse the gate inside the abs distributon block and that would need to be looked at also.

 

the u joints are good. after installing them i gave the yokes a couple light smacks with a hammer and they don't have any resistance at all.

if it was a wheel weight i would think the vibration would be constant while moving and not just when braking.

i didn't need to compress the caliper when i put it back on because i didn't change the pads.

i really think a good once over with sand paper and brake cleaner will cure it if it is not a warped rotor. tomorrow i'm going to pop the wheel off and check it out.

 

by chance how did you pull the hub out,puller using the wheel studs or one of those big 3 finger pullers that go over the rotor?

 

i grabbed it with one hand and pulled it out while pushing the stub shaft back with the other. i don't have the rust issue that so many other people on here have and i use a good penetrating fluid so i don't have problems with things not wanting to come apart.

 

ok that shoots that theory down the crapper. I'm running out of reasons what it could be. I hope the brake clean wash and sandpaper does the trick.

 

i still haven't driven it but i sanded down the rotor and pads earlier with a 120 grit belt for the belt sander. one pad looked like it was the culprit but i need to go on a trip to find out. so i believe it was contamination on the brake pad softening it up. if that wasn't it then i'll take them to the parts store and swap them out under warranty.
when i changed the seal on the passenger axle i had the caliper hanging for a couple weeks and the pads got some rust on them but i didn't think anything of it. i figured that the rust would rub off the first time i hit the brakes. so maybe the rust between the rotor and the pad didn't rub off but instead got sandwiched between the pad and rotor. i don't know but i think that was the issue. after i take a trip in it i'll let ya know.

 

well the sanding did the trick for a couple trips. but today it started the vibration again. i believe i got some type of fluid on the pads and it screwed them up so i'm going to swap them under warranty some time soon.