Front axle is leaking...
I saw the write up on ps. Is there any special tool's need to do this?
#2
07-24-2009, 08:37 PM
yes. i haven't done mine yet, but just based on reading the other threads, you need a method to seat the seal on the passenger side, into the outer edge of the cad. plus, you have to take half the damn truck apart to get to those $5 seals.
i found that when my front diff was slap full, it tended to leak more. if i keep the fluid level just a tad below the fill hole, it doesn't leak.
and this is a question. i wonder if any of those engine or transmission stop leaks would help those seals any ?
i found that when my front diff was slap full, it tended to leak more. if i keep the fluid level just a tad below the fill hole, it doesn't leak.
and this is a question. i wonder if any of those engine or transmission stop leaks would help those seals any ?
#4
07-24-2009, 08:51 PM
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I just did mine about 2 monthes ago...the passenger side is hard, you'll need to make a tool using a threaded rod and some washers and nuts. I did both of mine but only the passenger side was actually leaking.
I find it unlikely that both sides seals would blow at once. You said something about off roading and water? It's definitely conceivable that its over filled with water now and its bleeding through, it'll do that even if its overfilled with fluid. I would check it out before you tackle this project as its involved.
I find it unlikely that both sides seals would blow at once. You said something about off roading and water? It's definitely conceivable that its over filled with water now and its bleeding through, it'll do that even if its overfilled with fluid. I would check it out before you tackle this project as its involved.
#5
07-24-2009, 08:58 PM
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Well the one side was leaking than this side started today. I noticed it at work.
So open the hole and see how full it is? It was deep water, Like frame. Well I might as well drop the cover and change it. What weight gear oil is needed. How much as well. I don't need to put anything in the front correct.
So open the hole and see how full it is? It was deep water, Like frame. Well I might as well drop the cover and change it. What weight gear oil is needed. How much as well. I don't need to put anything in the front correct.
#6
07-24-2009, 09:00 PM
the last time mine leaked bad was after driving through a lot of deep water. when i drained the fluid it had a lot of water in it (milky color) and thinned down pretty bad.
i replaced the fluid and filled it completely full. when full it leaked pretty bad (puddles), and i tried to keep it full, and it continued to leak. i let it go just a little low and the leak was greatly reduced. it no longer leaves puddles. i just keep it checked and add a little every once in while but don't over fill it. fill it to just below the fill hole where you can stick your pinky in and come out with oil on it.
edit. the manual says 75w150, but i used the same 85w90 as the rear. no additive. about 2 quarts.
i replaced the fluid and filled it completely full. when full it leaked pretty bad (puddles), and i tried to keep it full, and it continued to leak. i let it go just a little low and the leak was greatly reduced. it no longer leaves puddles. i just keep it checked and add a little every once in while but don't over fill it. fill it to just below the fill hole where you can stick your pinky in and come out with oil on it.
edit. the manual says 75w150, but i used the same 85w90 as the rear. no additive. about 2 quarts.
Last edited by dhvaughan; 07-24-2009 at 09:03 PM.
#7
07-24-2009, 09:05 PM
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#8
07-24-2009, 09:21 PM
It is a big job to do i just ready to do my as soon as i get my derby car done and out the garge and got to do the same for my buddy 00 ram. Got to take the front axle shaft out on both side. Which mean pulling the hub which is a pain in the a$$ had to do the driver side b/c of ball jonts. Lots of PB blaster and a BFH (BIG FUC*ing HAMMER) do the u joint to b/c it cheap and your in that far any way.
#10
07-25-2009, 09:24 AM
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this job isn't hard, its just involved. i'm about to put mine back together today. you have to take out both axles and the carrier to get to the driver seal and you have to make a custom slide hammer with the threaded rod for the passenger seal. the hardest part about replacing the seals is getting the carrier in and out if you don't have any help.
since your u joints only have 3k on them then the hubs should be easy to get off. when you reassemble you should put antiseize on all the contact points on the hubs to make them easier to get off the next time.
if you use a good penetrating fluid then your hubs will be easy. mine were at 125000 miles and they didn't give me any fuss, i should have sent my g/f out there to do it because it was that easy.
heres what i told another guy on a thread a couple days ago:
since your u joints only have 3k on them then the hubs should be easy to get off. when you reassemble you should put antiseize on all the contact points on the hubs to make them easier to get off the next time.
if you use a good penetrating fluid then your hubs will be easy. mine were at 125000 miles and they didn't give me any fuss, i should have sent my g/f out there to do it because it was that easy.
heres what i told another guy on a thread a couple days ago:
that pavement sucks article is a really good one but i did one thing different. to get the carrier out i backed my dads truck up to mine with the hitch lined up with the front differential and i put a small chain around the carrier then hooked a come a long to the chain. i was laying under the truck to catch the carrier while my dad slowly cranked the come a long.
the carrier is pretty hefty (i'd guess about 45 lbs) so be careful not to drop it when it clears the housing. also make sure you have your intermediate axle pulled out of the carrier all the way or you won't be able to get the carrier out.
one last thing, to get the hub nuts off make sure you use penetrating fluid before you try and use about a 3 foot section of pipe on the breaker bar so you won't get a hernia. my brother in law took his to a shop because he couldn't break it free with a 1/2" breaker bar. i told him to get a 3/4" breaker bar with a cheater bar and some penetrating fluid, but he's stubborn and too far away for me to go get it off for him.
good penetrating fluids are CRC Knock'er Loose, Cyclo Breakaway, AeroKroil (Kroil oil). <--these will take a few minutes of spraying and tapping before the nut will come off (tap to set up vibration to work it into the threads faster)
so/so penetrating fluids are liquid wrench, pb blaster and wd 40. <--these will take a couple days of spraying and tapping before they penetrate.
the carrier is pretty hefty (i'd guess about 45 lbs) so be careful not to drop it when it clears the housing. also make sure you have your intermediate axle pulled out of the carrier all the way or you won't be able to get the carrier out.
one last thing, to get the hub nuts off make sure you use penetrating fluid before you try and use about a 3 foot section of pipe on the breaker bar so you won't get a hernia. my brother in law took his to a shop because he couldn't break it free with a 1/2" breaker bar. i told him to get a 3/4" breaker bar with a cheater bar and some penetrating fluid, but he's stubborn and too far away for me to go get it off for him.
good penetrating fluids are CRC Knock'er Loose, Cyclo Breakaway, AeroKroil (Kroil oil). <--these will take a few minutes of spraying and tapping before the nut will come off (tap to set up vibration to work it into the threads faster)
so/so penetrating fluids are liquid wrench, pb blaster and wd 40. <--these will take a couple days of spraying and tapping before they penetrate.